Crazy Motif Skirt

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I made this skirt using motifs from The Crazy Motif Bolero. If you don’t have that pattern, you can experiment using motif patterns that are freely available on-line or motif patterns that you already have. Check out your crochet books and magazines for patterns for doilies and coasters. Check out the stitch/pattern dictionaries. There’s plenty available. You can also see the motif blouse, Sundance, made in a similar way.

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I used 4-ply cotton yarn in light blue and yellow colours. The motifs join-as-you-go. The skirt has a mesh waistband which I made wide enough to be secure. I added the waistband in the round after the skirt is seamed.

The next step is to add length to the skirt using natural colour cotton threads. I have lots of these undyed threads of size 5, just a bit thinner than the 4-ply cotton yarn. My plan was to create a lighter undyed colour lace at the hem of the skirt.

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Corinthia No Pattern Dress

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This is what I do when I make a dress without a pattern. I hope that this inspires you to do the same. And more.

Corinthia is an exercise in making a crocheted dress without the use of patterns and with only very minimal shaping. A basic dress is finished first then it is embellished with Irish crochet motifs.

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Corinthia is worked in the round. Work starts at the waist: a strip of motifs joined together. Then the upper section is made up to the armpits, crocheting in rows with decrease at the front to shape the overlapping V-neckline. The V-neckline then commences separately towards the left and right Front shoulder. The low back and shoulder for the Back is added on separately. The skirt section is worked down from the waist, in rounds. There is no shaping as the motifs already narrow at the waist, gathers a bit then flares very slightly as work is done downwards.

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The upper part of the dress is worked in a trellis with picots stitch pattern. This is easy to shape. The lower part of the dress is worked in alternating rounds of sc, dc-ch-dc, dc, etc. – just to create an interesting mesh design.

MAKING THE BASIC DRESS

After the basic dress is finished, Irish crochet motifs are made and sewn onto the dress.

MAKING THE IRISH CROCHET MOTIFS

The hook I used for this project is 2.25mm and the yarn is 3-ply silk-acrylic and thicker 8-ply cotton yarn for the padding cord.

Some lessons:

Crochet dresses tend to stretch due to gravity. They stretch more with every washing and most specially when hang to dry. Stretch is prevented by drying flat and flat storage.

However, I tend to prefer hang dry because this allows the crochet fabric to dry faster. During the cooler and wet seasons, crochet fabric take longer to dry and have that unpleasant smell if they do not dry properly.

If you use a blocked gauge swatch, you can crochet the garment to a size approximating that of the washed finished garment taking into account stretch through washing and gravity. However, a blocked gauge can’t really account for gravity during wear.

So what I do is trial and error especially when using a yarn I am not familiar with. When I finish a basic garment (without the motifs), I try to make them shorter than the desired finished length. If the garment stretches after washing (and hanging to dry), I adjust the shoulder length. This is why I often leave tail ends undone until I am perfectly certain that the garment will no longer stretch.

Sewing a lining to the dress is another solution. The lining, especially when sewn at the seams, will keep the crochet fabric from stretching. I have not tried this before, though, so I have no experience to speak of of this solution.

Finishing stitches are also a solution. The finishing done along the neckline, armholes, and shoulders as well as the waist in some cases, provide the “back bone” for the dress. A good strong finishing/trim of solid tight stitches will have the least tendency to stretch.

Or – of course – you can use yarn that has the least tendency to stretch and change its shape due to gravity, washing or other. Cotton is one example I can think of. It has only a mild tendency to stretch.

One solution I have tried is to crochet the yarn together with polyester thread of matching colour, as polyester thread will not stretch.

Sundance

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“Sundance” is a Crochetology challenge – get various round motifs together to make a blouse. I thought of doing this because I wanted to use a Japanese crochet book of coasters, Christmas tree decorations and motifs to make a garment. This was also the chance to get more used to crocheting a garment without a full pattern, using motifs joined together, a basic method used in Irish crochet and in the new crochet fashion coming from Russia and the Ukraine.

For this project, I used 4-ply cotton yarn and a 2.5mm hook. This is great if you’re new to Irish crochet or joining motifs to make a garment since Irish crochet and the Russian/Ukrainian patterns often ask for fine thread and hook. It is best to practise with the yarn and hook that you are comfortable with before moving onto finer work.

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There are various methods in joining motifs or filling in spaces between motifs to create the fabric and shape you need. General methods include starting in the narrow spaces and moving out from there. Often in this method, the motifs are already arranged onto a surface following the desired shape. Such a surface may be a piece of fabric cut out in the shape desired, such as a blouse. Or one may use an existing garment and baste the motifs on that.

The method I use here is more spontaneous. I don’t use a fabric or garment as base. I make all the motifs I like and make a layout that create the shape, then I crochet around a motif and join that to the next one. Some important things:

1. I don’t worry about the edges, they can be as crooked and uneven as they are. I focus on joining the motifs.

2. I don’t worry about large gaps between motifs. The motifs don’t need to fit each other like perfecting a jigsaw puzzle. The gaps are part of the design and can be filled in later if desired.

3. I choose motifs on the basis of their shape (circle, octagon, hexagon), the less spaces around the motif to fill in the better. I choose also on the basis of their size, I prefer large motifs at least 3 inches in diameter as minimum. I avoid motifs that are too heavy or solid.

4. I used 3-ply cotton yarn in natural colour when I ran out of 4-ply yarn, keeping the yarn in the area at the bottom of the blouse, then deciding to use the same yarn to make curved lines all across the blouse in surface crochet. This allows the new yarn to be more integrated with the whole design.

5. Join and fill-in stitches are mostly chain stitches joined with sl st or sc, and sometimes dc or tr for areas where chain stitches are insufficient. Working around the motifs seem to be the easiest way to join them, rather than working at one side of the motif to join to the next.

6. If you’re used to reading and following patterns in crochet, this can be a daunting exercise but you can do it. You can take that hook and yarn anywhere.

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Silky Camel Lace Neck Warmer

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Finished Measurements:

Approximately 13 inches long and 9 inches wide

The length and width of the neck warmer can be easily adjusted by increasing the length of the foundation chain to desired width and by adding more rows to the desired length.

Yarn:

Baby Camel 4 by Lotus Yarns, approximately 25 grams or 80 meters

Silky Camel Lace by Lotus Yarns, approximately 5 grams (worked in 2 strands held together)

Yarn Substitution:

Substitute Baby Camel 4 with DK/8-ply yarn

Substitute Silky Camel Lace with 2-ply lace yarn

Hooks: Aluminum Crochet Hook size 3mm and 3.5mm

Notions:

Sewing needle

3 buttons (1.5cm in diameter)

Gauge:
23 stitches and 9 rows in double crochet stitches = 4 inches/10 cm square

Terminology:
Pattern is written using US crochet terminology.

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Design Notes:
The neck warmer is started at one end using Baby Camel Yarn and larger hook, working vertically in rows until you reach the desired length. The neck warmer is a simple mesh of double crochet stitches separated by a single chain space. The upper edge of the neck warmer has rows of 2 double crochet stitches next to each other while the lower edge of the neck warmer has the double crochet and chain space. So you must end the row on the side where you can continue working along the lower edge of the piece. Here, a scallop edge is worked all along the lower edge of the neck warmer.

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The lacy edging is worked in Silky Camel Lace Yarn in two strands held together using smaller hook. The lace edging is done in 3 rows, started by joining the yarn with sc around the stem of the second double crochet along the upper edge of the neck warmer, right side facing.

Instructions:

With Baby Camel 4 and 3.5mm hook, ch 31.

Row 1: Dc in 6th ch from hook, *ch 1, sk next ch, dc in next ch, rep fr * all across, up to the second to the last ch. Dc in last ch. Ch 3, turn.

Row 2: Sk first dc, dc in next dc, *sk next ch, ch 1, dc in next dc, rep fr * all across. Ch 4, turn.

Row 3: Sk first dc and next ch, dc in next dc, *ch 1, sk next ch, dc in next dc, rep fr * all across, up to
the second to the last dc, dc in last dc. Ch 3, turn.

Rows 4-30: Rep rows 2-3, ending with row 2. At last rep, make ch 3 instead of ch 4. Do not turn.

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Continue along the lower edge of the neck warmer as follows:

3 dc in first sp, *sc in top of next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next sp, rep fr * all along the edge of the neck warmer, up to the last sp. End with sc in top of last dc. Fasten off.

Lace Edging along upper edge of Neck Warmer:

Using two strands of Silky Camel Lace Yarn held together and 3mm hook and neck warmer facing the right side, insert the hook at the back, to the front, around the stem of the second of two dc along the upper edge of the neck warmer. Yo, draw loop through, yo and draw yarn through loop to make sc. Continue working in this manner, working the stitches of the first row from the back of the neck warmer as follows:

Row 1: Ch 4, dc around same dc stem, *ch 1, around next dc stem make (dc, ch 1, dc), rep fr * all along the edge, up to the last dc stem. Ch 4, turn.

Row 2: In first ch sp make (dc, ch 1, dc), *ch 1, in next ch sp make (dc, ch 1, dc), rep fr * all across to the last ch sp. Ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Sk first sp, *in next sp make (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc), ch 1, sk next sp, sc in next sp, sk next sp, in next sp make (3 dc, ch 6, sl st in 6th ch fr hook, 3 dc), sk next sp, sc in next sp, sk next sp, rep fr * all across. Sc in last sp. Fasten off.

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Finishing:

Block to shape. Sew the three buttons onto one end of the neck warmer as in photographs.

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Motificat!

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The finished swimsuit, Motificat! Named so after my cat Earl Grey, who sits with me everytime I crochet.
The finished swimsuit, Motificat! Named so after my cat Earl Grey, who sits with me everytime I crochet.

Crochetology exercise – given the square motif and trim below, make an article of clothing. My project is a pair of boyshorts and a bra top to be used for swimming.

The challenge here is first to make a half version of the motif. The next challenge is to determine the layout of the motifs to make the shape of the intended size particularly for the bra top.

The full motif, joining and the trim.
The full motif, joining and the trim.
The half motif.
The half motif.
Proposed assembly of motifs for small size.
Proposed assembly of motifs for small size.
Proposed assembly of motifs for larger size.
Proposed assembly of motifs for larger size.

MAKING THE BRA TOP

Use three motifs joined together to make the bra top. Use more motifs to make the band below the bust and around the back. Use half motifs to shape under the arms. Photos below show the bra top construction in progress. Crocheted ties are used along the bottom of the bra top. The straps are simple rows of sc stitches.

The finished bra top.
The finished bra top.

MAKING THE BOYSHORTS

The boyshorts consists of motifs all around the hips, then rows of treble stitches along the top to make the waistband. The crotch is shaped also with treble stitches shaped by adding stitches to increase and skipping stitches to decrease. Then the legs are worked in treble stitches. Photos below show the boyshorts construction in progress. Crocheted ties are used along the waistband.

The finished boyshorts.
The finished boyshorts.

Embellishing a Triangle Motif – anklets and necklace

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One of my favourite motifs for making jewellery is the triangle motif. It looks absolutely beautiful as its shape goes well on the body. In these examples, I use a triangle motif to make anklets and a necklace.

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The yarn is Hamanaka Lacy Crochet cotton size 8, and the hook is1mm steel. I used only black beads: cut beads and tear drop-shaped beads.

Here is the pattern for the motif.

Triangle Motif
Hook: 1mm
Yarn: Black cotton thread 8

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Ch 8. Sl st in first ch to make a ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in ring, *ch 3, sc in ring, ch 4, keeping last loop of each stitch on hook, make 3 treble crochet in ring, yarn over and pull loop through all 4 loops on hook (3-tr cluster made), ch 4, sc in ring, rep fr * two more times, omitting the sc in the last rep; sl st in first ch made in current round to join.

Rnd 2: Sl st in next 3-ch sp, ch 4, tr in same 3-ch sp, ch 5, *sc in 4-ch sp, ch 3, sc in next 4-ch sp, ch 5, keeping last loop of each stitch on hook, make 2 treble crochet in next 3-ch sp, yarn over and pull loop through all 3 loops on hook (2-tr cluster made), ch 5, rep fr * one more time, sc in 4-ch sp, ch 3, sc in next 4-ch sp, ch 2, dc in top of ch-4 made in the beginning of current round.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in stem of dc, *ch 3, in top of next tr cluster make (dc, ch 3, dc), ch 3, sc in next 5-ch sp, ch 4, 3-tr cluster in next 3-ch sp, ch 12, sl st in eighth ch fr hook, ch 4, 3-tr cluster in same 3-ch sp, ch 4, sc in next 5-ch sp, rep fr * two more times, but in last rep omit the last sc, instead, sl st in first ch made at the beginning of the current round to join.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, *3 sc in each of next 3 3-ch sps, 4 sc in next 4-ch sp, 5 sc in next 4-ch sp, 9 sc in next 8-ch loop, 5 sc in next 4-ch sp, 4 sc in next 4-ch sp, rep fr * two more times, sl st in first ch made in current round to join. Fasten off.

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Use a fine beading needle to sew on the beads. Always use the best quality beads that sparkle most beautifully.

But before beading, you might wish to starch your lace. Here’s how.

Starching your Crocheted Jewellery

Lay crocheted lace flat on a few layers of clean cloth. Spray or dab with commercial fabric stiffener. You can also prepare your own fabric stiffener as follows: dissolve 1 tsp cornstarch in one cup of water in a saucepan. Add a tsp of vinegar or salt as preservative. Bring to a gentle boil stirring constantly. Let cool and pour into a spray bottle. You can also use a brush to apply the starch solution instead of spraying. You can also dip the motif into the starch solution and press out excess with your fingers.

While wet, use your fingers to shape the crocheted lace, flatten tips and corners that stick up. When done, let the piece dry completely for at least two to three days.

Sewn to the pendant are black satin ribbons.
Sewn to the pendant are black satin ribbons.

After starching, sew on the beads and the straps. For the necklace, I used a black satin ribbon.

The anklets use black round elastics.
The anklets use black round elastics.

For the anklet, I used round black cloth covered elastics. I find that elastics are more easy to wear for anklets so I don’t have to bother with buttons or ties. Use good quality elastics for this, the ones that look nice.

With your favourite motifs, you can make beautiful crochet jewellery by embellishing with the best quality beads. Make these for yourself, as gifts or to sell in your handmade shop.

Hairpin Lace Popcorn Scarf

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This hairpin lace scarf combines hairpin crochet with popcorn stitches.
This hairpin lace scarf combines hairpin crochet with popcorn stitches.

You will need:

Hairpin Lace Staple 2″ or bigger if you want a wider scarf
3mm aluminium crochet hook
South Maid Cotton 8
or any 8-ply DK weight cotton yarn
Finished scarf shown is 4.5′′ wide and 40 inches long

This pattern is for the Intermediate to Advance Level crocheter.

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Instructions:

Make a band of hairpin crochet of desired length (+ 2 inches) with 3 sc in each loop. Make loops in multiples of 8 on each side. Remove the band completely from the staple but don’t fasten off. You will continue working around the band as follows (twist loops once when you work them):

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Rnd 1: Ch 4, *sc in first loop, ch 1, sc in next loop, and do this over a total of 8 loops; ch 1, join next 8 loops with sc, ch 1, re fr * to the last loop, ch 4, sc between sc’s in end of band; ch 4, repeat the established pattern such that it alternates with the pattern along the opposite side of the band. Ch 4, sl st in sc at end of band.

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Rnd 2: Ch 1, sl st in next sc and sl st up the 4-ch, now working only in back loops, work 1 sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch sp, but do not make sc in single sc joining the 8 loops together. Work these sc’s to the last sc, then sl st down the 4-ch, sc in sc at end of band, sl st along the next 4-ch, then work sc as before along the sc’s on the opposite side of the band. Sl st in 4-ch, sc in sc at the end of band.

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Rnd 3: Ch 1, work sc in all sc all around the scarf, but you must keep the wave shape of the scarf by making 2 sc in sc at the top of each upward wave, and 3sctog in 3 sc in the middle of each downward wave. To follow the curve of the scarf along the ends, you must also make 2 sc in each sc that turns the curve.

Work this way all around the scarf, then sl st in first sc to join the rnd.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, *in next sc make 5-dc popcorn, ch 2, sc each of next 5 sc, rep fr * all arounf the scarf. Fasten off. Weave in all ends and block to shape.

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Skingerstraat

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Here’s a pattern modification exercise. Given the pattern for a capelet below, make a bra and underwear set. My project, called “Skingerstraat”, is a bandeau and a pair of boyshorts. I used 3-ply cotton yarn and a 2.4mm hook.

The capelet is from a Japanese crochet book I got several years ago from National Book Store (unfortunately, NBS doesn’t seem to sell these books anymore…). The book is a collection of autumn and winter crochet garments. Although I can’t really make these items for use in a tropical country, I buy pattern books like these because I can always use the patterns as base or inspiration for my own projects.

Anyway, the challenge ion “Skingerstraat” is to take the scallop section of the capelet pattern and modify it so that it is worked in the round. You may take other parts of the pattern to make your own design.

The other challenge is to work the scallop pattern over a different base of stitches. The trick here is to count stitches and work in those stitches in such a way that the integrity (size, shape, etc) of the scallop pattern is maintained.

“Skingertraat” is about crocheting without a fixed complete pattern – to learn to modify, to be spontaneous, to use the hook and yarn to make a line that can go anywhere you want, to make the shape you want.

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TO MAKE THE BANDEAU

The bandeau is very easy. But the challenge here is to modify the pattern so that it can be worked in the round. Start with a foundation chain of 13 stitches for the pattern repeat.

TO MAKE THE BOYSHORTS

This is also easy, like doing the bandeau. The hard part is perhaps working the pattern all around the leg openings. Don’t be afraid to improvise. Rip and repeat until you get it right.

The finished boyshorts and bandeau, without lining and soft cups.
The finished boyshorts and bandeau, without lining and soft cups.

MORE

If you need some help making the underwear/boyshorts, check out the Duplet Swimsuit Edition bikini patterns at Walkednights. For making the underwear, I use simple dc stitches and increase by adding 2-3 stitches at each side. Decrease s made by skipping 1 stitch at each side. The number of stitches increased/decreased depends on the angle of the shape you are making. Normally, I decrease at the front towards the crotch with a single stitch decrease, and I increase from the crotch towards the back by adding 3 stitches at each side. Practise and see how the addition or subtraction of stitches make the shape.

The finished bandeau and boyshorts. Bandeau with lining and soft cups.
The finished bandeau and boyshorts. Bandeau with lining and soft cups.

Trippletimer

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TRIPPLETIMER | “Trippletimer” is a crocheted bolero that I named after the Spanish dance in triple time. It is a basic bolero construction of one piece – from the bottom up. The intention in this pattern is to begin with something basic, then to modify in little sections (such as the edging and sleeves) and then larger modifications (such as using a different openwork stitch for the body of the bolero). I hope that “Trippletimer” encourages you to modify, improvise and begin making your own bolero design.

 

TRIPPLETIMER
by Fatima Lasay

“Trippletimer” is a bolero made from the bottom up as a single piece, dividing into three to make the armholes and then seaming together at the shoulders. It is one of the most basic garment constructions in crochet.

A basic openwork stitch is needed for patterns of this kind. It should be a stitch that can be increased at both sides. The openwork stitch used here is the Trellis Picot Stitch (ch 7, sc in next loop, picot) – it is an openwork stitch in the shape of diamonds with a picot in each diamond. The first several rows are worked in increasing stitches to shape the curve of the front edges of the bolero, then the next rows are worked in straight stitches up to the armpits where the piece is then divided into three: front left, front right and back. One, three or five loops – depending on the size – make up the armholes.

When the suitable length – again depending on size – is reached from armpit to shoulders, the front left and right are seamed to the shoulders. A finishing is made by crocheting two rounds of sc all around the edges of the bolero, with a final round of simple crochet lace trimming. Five rounds of a slightly smaller version of the basic openwork stitch is worked around the armholes to make the cap sleeves.

The easiest way to modify the pattern is to vary the trim around the edges of the bolero and the sleeves. The second way to modify the pattern is to use your own openwork stitch instead of the Trellis Stitch with Picot. Other modifications can also be made such as making longer sleeves, using buttons or ties, etc. for as long as you are keeping to the size you require.


Trippletimer (Crocheted Bolero)
by Fatima Lasay

Yarn: Light Fingering (UK 3 ply)
Hook: 3mm
Terminology: US Crochet Terminology

Size/Measurements:
Small: 32-34 inches
Medium: 36-38 inches
Large: 40-42 inches

Special Stitches:
Picot: Ch 3, sl st in base st (sc in this pattern). Picot made.

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Instructions:

Bolero (Size Small):

Row 1: Ch 105. Sc in 15th ch fr hook. Ch 7, sk 4 ch, sc in next ch (this completes a Trellis Picot Stitch); rep fr * to make 19 loops; ch 14, turn.

Row 2: Sc in first loop, picot, *ch 7, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * and finish by working the last loop with: sc in 3rd ch of loop, picot, sc in 8th ch of same loop; ch 14, turn.

Row 3-16: Rep row 2. You should have 35 loops at the end of Row 16. End the row with ch 7; turn.

Row 17: Sc in first loop, picot, *ch 7, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * on all loops; ch 7, turn.

Row 18-22: Rep row 17. End with ch 7, turn. Then begin to divide for the armholes as follows:

Left Front Piece:

Row 1-18: Work (sc in next loop, picot, ch 7) on first seven loops; ch 7. End last row with sc in last loop. Fasten off.

Right Front Piece:

Row 1: Join yarn to 7th to the last loop on other side of the bolero. *Ch 7, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr *; end row with sc in last loop.

Row 2-18: Work (sc in next loop, picot, ch 7) on first seven loops; ch 7. End last row with sc in last loop. Fasten off.

Back Piece: Work 18 rows of the trellis-picot stitch in the middle loops leaving one loop unworked for each armhole. When you reach the last row of the back piece, join to shoulders of left front and right front pieces. Fasten off.

Edging: Work two rows of sc all along the edges of the bolero as follows: work 6 sc along the edges of rows 1-16. Work 4 sc in the rest of the loops. For the third row, work as follows: sc, ch 3, sk 1 sc, sc in next sc, all along the edges. Fasten off.

Sleeve: Join with sc to sp at armpit and work all around the armhole three rounds as follows: *ch 5, sc in next sp, picot; rep fr * all around, end with ch 2, dc in first sc made. Ch 1, sc in dc, picot, ch 5, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * all around, end with ch 2, dc in first sc made. Repeat this round one last time to make 3 rounds.

Begin round 4 as follows: Ch 1, sc in dc, *ch 4, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * all around; end with ch 1, dc in first sc made. Then continue the last round as follows: *ch 3, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * all around. Fasten off. Weave in all ends and block to measurements.


Instructions:
Bolero (Size Medium):

Row 1: Ch 115. Sc in 15th ch fr hook. Ch 7, sk 4 ch, sc in next ch (this completes a Trellis Picot Stitch); rep fr * to make 21 loops; ch 14, turn.

Row 2: Sc in first loop, picot, *ch 7, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * and finish by working the last large loop with: sc in 3rd ch of loop, picot, sc in 8th ch of same loop; ch 14, turn.

Row 3-18: Rep row 2. You should have 35 loops at the end of Row 16. End the row with ch 7; turn.

Row 19: Sc in first loop, picot, *ch 7, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * on all loops; ch 7, turn.

Row 20-26: Rep row 19. End last row with ch 7, turn. Then begin to divide for the armholes as follows:

Left Front Piece:

Row 1-22: Work (sc in next loop, picot, ch 7) on first seven loops; ch 7. End last row with sc in last loop. Fasten off.

Right Front Piece:

Row 1: Join yarn to 7th to the last loop on other side of the bolero. *Ch 7, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr *; end row with sc in last loop.

Row 2-22: Work (sc in next loop, picot, ch 7) on first seven loops; ch 7. End last row with sc in last loop. Fasten off.

Back Piece: Work 22 rows of the trellis-picot stitch in the middle loops leaving three loops unworked for each armhole. When you reach the last row of the back piece, join to shoulders of left front and right front pieces. Fasten off.

Edging: Work two rows of sc all along the edges of the bolero as follows: work 6 sc along the edges of rows 1-16. Work 4 sc in the rest of the loops. For the third row, work as follows: sc, ch 3, sk 1 sc, sc in next sc, all along the edges. Fasten off.

Sleeve: Join with sc to sp at armpit and work all around the armhole three rounds as follows: *ch 5, sc in next sp, picot; rep fr * all around, end with ch 2, dc in first sc made. Ch 1, sc in dc, picot, ch 5, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * all around, end with ch 2, dc in first sc made. Repeat this round one last time to make 3 rounds.

Begin round 4 as follows: Ch 1, sc in dc, *ch 4, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * all around; end with ch 1, dc in first sc made. Rep another round of the same. Then continue the last round as follows: *ch 3, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * all around. Fasten off.

Weave in all ends and block to measurements.

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Instructions:
Bolero (Size Large):

Row 1: Ch 125. Sc in 15th ch fr hook. Ch 7, sk 4 ch, sc in next ch (this completes a Trellis Picot Stitch); rep fr * to make 23 loops; ch 14, turn.

Row 2: Sc in first loop, picot, *ch 7, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * and finish by working the last large loop with: sc in 3rd ch of loop, picot, sc in 8th ch of same loop; ch 14, turn.

Row 3-20: Rep row 2. You should have 43 loops at the end of Row 16. End the row with ch 7; turn.

Row 21: Sc in first loop, picot, *ch 7, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * on all loops; ch 7, turn.

Row 22-28: Rep row 21. End with ch 7, turn. Then begin to divide for the armholes as follows:

Left Front Piece:

Row 1-26: Work (sc in next loop, picot, ch 7) on first seven loops; ch 7. End last row with sc in last loop. Fasten off.

Right Front Piece:

Row 1: Join yarn to 7th to the last loop on other side of the bolero. *Ch 7, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr *; end row with sc in last loop.

Row 2-26: Work (sc in next loop, picot, ch 7) on first seven loops; ch 7. End last row with sc in last loop. Fasten off.

Back Piece: Work 26 rows of the trellis-picot stitch in the middle loops leaving five loops unworked for each armhole. When you reach the last row of the back piece, join to shoulders of left front and right front pieces. Fasten off.

Edging: Work two rows of sc all along the edges of the bolero as follows: work 6 sc along the edges of rows 1-16. Work 4 sc in the rest of the loops. For the third row, work as follows: sc, ch 3, sk 1 sc, sc in next sc, all along the edges. Fasten off.

Sleeve: Join with sc to sp at armpit and work all around the armhole four rounds as follows: *ch 5, sc in next sp, picot; rep fr * all around, end with ch 2, dc in first sc made. Ch 1, sc in dc, picot, ch 5, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * all around, end with ch 2, dc in first sc made. Repeat this round to make 4 rounds.

Begin round 5 as follows: Ch 1, sc in dc, *ch 4, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * all around; end with ch 1, dc in first sc made. Then continue the last round as follows: *ch 3, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * all around. Fasten off.

Weave in all ends and block to measurements.

Crochet Girl Hairband 

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Yarn: Acrylic Yarn in DK, Sport or Fingering Weight.

The hairband shown is crochetd in Red Heart Acrylic Yarn, 4-ply. Two skeins of yarn are used totalling about 20 grams of yarn. The hairband is crocheted in gray colour yarn.

Hook: 3.5mm crochet hook

Measurements:

Motif measures about 3 inches square.
The hairband measures 27 inches including the ties.

The hairband is made up of a square motif in the centre, with the ties crocheted at opposite sides of the motif.

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Instructions

Square Motif:

With yarn and 3.5mm hook, chain 8. Slip stitch in the first chain to make a ring.

Round 1: Chain 1, single crochet in ring, *chain 2, 5 double crochet in ring, chain 2, single crochet in ring, repeat from * 2 times; chain 2, 5 double crochet in ring, chain 2, slip stitch in the first single crochet to join. (4 petals made)

Round 2: Chain 1, single crochet in same single crochet where the slip stitch was made, (chain 4, single crochet in next single crochet between two petals keeping the chain-4 loop behind the petal) 3 times; chain 4, slip stitch in first single crochet to join.

Round 3: Slip stitch in chain-4 space, chain 3, 3 double crochet in same chain-4 space, chain 2, 4 double crochet in same chain-4 space, * chain 2, in next chain-4 space make (4 double crochet, chain 2, 4 double crochet), repeat from * 2 more times; chain 2, slip stitch in top of first chain-3 to join.

Round 4: Slip stitch in each of next 3 double crochets, slip stich in the chain-2 space, chain 3, in the same chain-2 space make (3 double crochet, chain 3, 4 double crochet), *chain 1, 4 double crochet in the next chain-2 space, chain 1, in the next chain-2 space make (4 double crochet, chain 3, 4 double crochet), repeat from * 2 more times; chain 1, 4 double crochet in the next chain-2 space, chain 1, slip stitch in top of the first chain-3 to join. Finish off.

Now join the yarn with a slip stitch to one of the chain-3 loops at the corner of the square motif.

Row 1: Chain 1, 1 single crochet in the same loop, single crochet in each of the next 4 double crochets, single crochet in chain-1 space, single crochet in each of the next 4 double crochets, single crochet in the next chain-1 space, single crochet in each of the next 4 double crochets, 1 single crochet in the next corner chain-3 loop (16 single crochets made). Chain 1, turn.

Row 2: Single crochet in the first single crochet, (chain 2, skip 2 single crochets, single crochet in next single crochet) 5 times. Chain 1, turn.

Row 3:
Single crochet in first single crochet, (2 single crochets in chain-2 space, single crochet in next single crochet) 5 times. Chain 1, turn.

Rows 4-7: Repeat rows 2-3.

Row 8: Single crochet in each of 16 single crochets. Chain 1, turn.

Row 9:
Skip the first single crochet, single crochet in next single crochet and in each of the next 12 single crochets, skip next single crochet, single crochet in the last single crochet. Chain 1, turn. (14 single crochets made)

Row 10:
Single crochet in each single crochet across. Chain 1, turn.

Row 11: Skip the first single crochet, single crochet in next single crochet and in each of the next 10 single crochets, skip next single crochet, single crochet in the last single crochet. Chain 1, turn. (12 single crochets made)

Row 12: Repeat row 10.

Row 13:
Skip the first single crochet, single crochet in next single crochet and in each of the next 8 single crochets, skip next single crochet, single crochet in the last single crochet. Chain 1, turn. (10 single crochets made)

Row 14:
Repeat row 10.

Row 15:
Skip the first single crochet, single crochet in next single crochet and in each of the next 6 single crochets, skip next single crochet, single crochet in the last single crochet. Chain 1, turn. (8 single crochets made)

Row 16:
Repeat row 10.

Row 17:
Skip the first single crochet, single crochet in next single crochet and in each of the next 4 single crochets, skip next single crochet, single crochet in the last single crochet. Chain 1, turn. (6 single crochets made)

Row 18:
Repeat row 10.

Row 19:
Skip the first single crochet, single crochet in next single crochet and in each of the next 2 single crochets, skip next single crochet, single crochet in the last single crochet. Chain 1, turn. (4 single crochets made)

Row 20:
Repeat row 10 until piece measures 12 inches (excluding the square motif). Finish off.

Join the yarn with a slip stitch to one of the chain-3 loops at the opposite corner of the square motif. Follow the same instructions above for completing the other half of the hairband.

Weave in all ends.

Happy Crocheting!

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