Vacation notice

August 16th, 2010 by fats No comments »

I will be away for several weeks and will probably not have Internet access (or electricity!) during that period and could be very busy. Often, being away from Internet gives me more time to focus, and the change in environment encourages me to work in new, different directions.

While I will be continuing my crochet, I have thought of leaving all WIPs behind and starting anew. I also plan to bring some knitting needles to continue my new sojourn into the world of knitting. :)

Camiguin Island as seen from the Baluarte.

In the meantime, please visit Edward’s new website, “Edward’s Compatibility Club” and get free fortune-telling consultations with Edward! :)

Or you can send us a postcard thru:

Fatima Lasay-Batten
San Roque, Baclayon, Bohol
6301 Philippines

Cheers!
Fatima

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Posted in News and Announcements

Sound and electronic music

August 15th, 2010 by fats No comments »

Not crochet related but here are some music I made in 1999-2002. Included is a 4-minute recorded excerpt from a sound installation in 2004. Feel free to share with others.

I haven’t been doing much “Art” lately, perhaps because crochet is the more authentic art form. I never learned to like the “Art World” and the Industry of Contemporary Art, it is a World that has always betrayed me, a World that I am all too happy to leave behind.

I made these compositions before I was ‘forced’ to integrate them into “Visual Art”. I will never do that again. I am very happy with these compositions, and “Visual Art” doesn’t deserve these.

Free Music (OGG Format)
Music composed of recordings from Philippine AM radio broadcasts

Music (Sorry it is in proprietary MP3 Format)

Music constructed from my baby nephew’s first words

Compositions based on algorithms selected from extra-musical disciplines

MORE Compositions based on algorithms selected from extra-musical disciplines (OGG Format)

SOUND INSTALLATION
Mga awit mula sa gimokud / Chansons de mes deux âmes

4-minute recorded excerpt from the sound installation “Mga awit mula sa gimokud / Chansons de mes deux âmes” in Lac Geronde, Sierre, Switzerland, 2004. The composition is constructed through two sound sources – one is synthesized sound and the other is recorded sounds. The structure of the composition is based on The Book of the Hours.

"Mga awit mula sa gimokud / Chansons de mes deux âmes" in Lac Geronde, Sierre, Switzerland, 2004.

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Last minute wips …

August 13th, 2010 by fats 2 comments »

Almost time to go away again, and I’ve been whipping up more last minute WIPs! ;) Not a good idea!

Nevertheless, my knitting is progressing, if you might call this “progressing”! :D At least, I now got the cast-on, knit and purl sorted, and now need to know about casting off …

Trying out knitting with size 1 needles and with acrylic yarn and thread.

I am also still having trouble with the tension of the yarn. The corners of my knitting have loose threads, such as this:

Gotta fix my loose threads!!

This is something that I’ll need to take away with me together with some crochet WIPs, and of course, the wool that Bonnie sent! :D Wonderful Wool! :D

BUT when I went to the Main Post Office (it’s near our place) to pick up the package, I found out a couple horrible things…

First, the Philippine Postal Office have raised their parcel charges from 30 pesos to 40 pesos. That’s not so bad, I guess. What’s really bad is there seem now to be a new regulation coming from the Bureau of Customs regarding all parcels (including small ones like a few grams of wool). They are now ALL subject to duties and whole load of other things.

I learned about this as I was about to get the package when this officious looking woman from the Bureau of Customs showed up, smiling and all. She looked at the label on the package and said “Wool, yarn, we will have to open this to see what this is.” I said sure, as if I had any choice; they open everything, with the exception of small documents.

She saw the wool and said “okay, we will not ask you to pay duties on this for now, this is free but not for the next time. Here’s our brochure regarding customs duties.”

When I got down to lunch with my husband we went through the brochure and I can’t believe it …

According to the new regulations, I would’ve been asked to pay over 500 pesos (about US$11) for receiving the package: that’s 250 pesos for Customs Documentary Stamps, 250 pesos for Import Processing Fee, 15 pesos for the Bureau of Internal Revenue Stamp Tax, plus value added tax (10%), plus expanded value added tax (12%), plus computed dutiable value of the goods! And computed dutiable value of the goods is:

+ Commissions and Brokerage Fees
+ Cost of Containers
+ Cost of Packing
+ Amount of Royalties
+ Cost of Transportation
+ Value of Resale
+ Loading and Handling Charges
+ Cost of Insurance

Aaarghh!!!! :(

But the wool really looks so nice, all those lovely sheep on the label … and I love the colors, I love muted colors probably because I’ve had enough of the screaming bright colors of acrylic yarn here! :) I was just looking at the Lion Brand Yarn website yesterday dreaming of yarn, but now I don’t think I can afford all the trouble with the Customs … :(

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Free Pattern: One-Ball-of-Yarn Flower Headband

August 10th, 2010 by fats No comments »

This Project may be found in an older blogpost. I place the pattern here for people who cannot access the PDF pattern.

With one ball of fingering weight acrylic yarn, in this case, that's less than 25 grams, you can make this flower headband.

One-Ball-of-Yarn Flower Headband
Skill Level: Easy
Designer: Fatima Lasay
Website: http://www.crochetology.net/

Finished Measurements: Approximately 14 ½ inches long x 2 ¼ inches wide (excluding ties).
Approximately 32 inches long with the ties.

Yarn: Acrylic yarn, fingering
Color: One ball of yarn (25g) Ochre, small quantity of Black (for ties of headband)

My mother's latest bargain find - a packet of colorful fingering acrylic yarns made in China.

Hooks:
Aluminum crochet hook size 4/0 (2.50mm) Or size to obtain gauge

Notions:
Two beads of suitable hole size to fit crocheted chain
Round plastic stone with flat backing (1.5mm), pink
Yarn needle

Gauge: Center flower motif = 1.75 inches diameter
Terminology: Pattern is written using US crochet terminology (see chart on last page for conversion).

Instructions
Headband:
Note: Headband is worked starting at narrow end.

With ochre color yarn, ch 12.

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in next 4th ch from hook, *ch 1, sk 1 ch, dc in next ch, rep from * 5 times, dc in last ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 2-5: Dc in next dc, *ch 1, sk ch, dc in next dc, rep from * 5 times, dc on top of turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 6-10: Dc in next dc and in each st to end, ch 3, turn.

Row 11-40: Rep rows 1-10 3 times more.

Row 41-45: Rep rows 1-5.

Row 46: (Small loops along side of headband) *Ch 4, sc in dc post along one side of headband, rep from * to end. Fasten off.

Make this Flower Headband in other colors to compliment the color of your hair.

(Small loops along other side of headband): Join thread to corner ch on other side of headband, *Ch 4, sc in dc post along side of headband, rep from * to end. Fasten off.

Flower:

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc in 3rd ch from hook, 10 more dc in same ch, sl st in first dc to join.

Row 2: *Ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, rep from * around ending with ch 5, sl st in base of first ch-5 loop (4 loops made).

Row 3: [Sc, hdc, dc, tr, ch 2, tr, dc, hdc, sc] in all four loops.

Row 4: Sl st behind sc between loops, *ch 7, sc in next sc between loop, rep from * around. (4 ch-7 loops made)

Row 5: [Sc, hdc, 3 dc, tr, ch 2, tr, 3 dc, hdc, sc] in all four loops. Fasten off.

Sew plastic stone to center of flower.

Attaching the flower motif to the headband (refer to photograph below for guide):
(Note:The crocheted flower is attached to the headband by crocheting a chain around the flower joined at the four petal points. It is at these four petal points that the flower is joined to the headband with a sc. Another option is to crochet the chain around the flower, fasten off, then just sew the flower onto the headband.)

Center the motif on the headband. You may also position the motif slightly nearer one end of the headband.

Join yarn with sc to first ch-2 tip of outer petal. Join to center of headband with sl st, *ch 12, sc in next ch-1 tip of outer petal, join to edge of headband with sl st, rep from * 3 more times. Fasten off.

With wrong side facing, fold one end of the headband over, touching the tip to the first row of dcs. Using the same yarn and a yarn needle, sew into place, with opening on the two sides for the ties to slip through later. Repeat for opposite end of headband.

Ties (refer to photograph below for guide):

Slip the tie into folded end of headband. Insert ends of tie into bead and make a knot.

Using black yarn, make two ties made of ch sts at least 20 inches long. Slip tie into folded end of headband. Insert ends of tie into bead and make a knot. Repeat for other tie.

Got more yarn? Make a cuff bracelet!

With some modifications of the pattern for the headband, you can make a cuff bracelet.

With some simple modifications of the pattern, you can make a cuff bracelet like this. For enclosure, sew one or two buttons at one end of the cuff and make loops at the other end. If you want a flatter flower motif like the one shown in the photo below, just sew down the tips of the inner petals.

Use buttons and crochet button loops for enclosure.

Crochet symbolcraft for the Flower Headband. (L-R) Symbolchart for the flower (you can crochet the flower with the ch-12 loops around it then sew on the headband); headband; folding the end of the headband and sewing in place for the ties to slip through. To learn about symbolcraft, visit http://crochetology.net/learn-crochet-symbolcraft

Happy Crocheting! :)

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Today…

August 9th, 2010 by fats 9 comments »

… is my birthday. :D

And a gift to myself is learning how to knit. I have just started with size 1 needles and some fingering weight yarn in yellow-orange color. I have done casting on and the knit stitch. I have asked a few Ravelry friends about knitting, and luckily I know of at least 2 people who can both crochet and knit.

A size 1 needle is indeed quite small for beginner knitting. My Ravelry friend Chaitanya recommends 3.5-4mm at least needles for fingering weight yarn, and bamboo needles. Bonnie recommends that I use lighter color yarns so that it’s easier to see the stitches. Since what I have at the moment are such small steel needles, I’m trying my luck with those! :) (I do things the HARD way! :D )

So far so good, but it certainly isn’t easy! For one, I have difficulty sliding the loop off the needle, and sometimes the next loop comes off with it; as a crochet beginner I tended to work very tightly which seem to be what I am doing now with knitting. Getting the right tension of yarn can be really tricky and is what I am trying to get a feel for at the moment.

My target projects in knitting of course are the beautiful knitted lace; it’s not very practical making thick knitted items in a tropical country! Except, perhaps, if I intend to have a swap with friends in cooler climes. :)

Which reminds me, another birthday gift to myself is my very first yarn swap with Bonnie who is based in the US. I’ll be getting some wool for some cotton and rayon (she loves the colors we have here!). I’m very excited about the wool because wool can be felted and I would like to try that. Wool is also supposedly easier to dye and I would really like to try that too! :) And because of this swap, the Post Office is going to become a much closer friend of mine. ;) And nobody can mess around with the P.O with this:

Actually, the people I’ve met in our nearest Post Office and the Post Office in Baclayon have been really friendly, so a trip to the Post Office have always been a pleasant experience for me.

Back to needlework! :D

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Posted in Crochetology Journal

A Simple Pineapple Top Bag

August 6th, 2010 by fats No comments »

A Simple Pineapple Top Bag
by Fatima Lasay (fats@crochetology.net)

This small bag can be used as a pouch or drawstring bag or as a purse with a folded flap.

Skill Level: Easy
Designer: Fatima Lasay
Website: http://www.crochetology.net/

Finished Measurements:
5 inches wide x 7 inches tall
5 inches wide x 4 inches tall (excluding pineapple flap)

Yarn: Crochet cotton thread, size 8, beige
Hooks: Aluminum crochet hook 5/0 (3mm) or size to obtain gauge
Notions: Synthetic leather thongs or satin lace ribbon, 20 inches long (for tie)
If you wish to use the bag as a purse with a flap top, you will need a button and yarn needle.
Gauge: 23 sts and 12 rows=4” in dc with yarn doubled and crochet hook size 5/0 (3mm)
Terminology: Pattern is written using US crochet terminology (see chart on last page for conversion).
Note: The bag is worked in one piece in the round starting from the base, using two strands of thread held together.

This photo shows where the leather thongs are woven into. Instead of leather you can also use a satin lace ribbon.

Instructions
Stitch guide:
Shell: 2 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in same sp
Picot: ch 3, sl st in same base st/dc
Hdc (half double crochet): Yarn over hook, insert hook in the next stitch to be worked, yarn over hook, pull yarn through stitch, yarn over hook, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook (one half double crochet made).

With two strands of thread held together, ch 27.

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (count as 1 dc), dc in 4th ch from hook, 2 more dc in same ch, then dc in each ch across with 7 dc in last ch to turn to other side of ch; now working on other side of ch, dc in next ch and in each ch across with 3 dc in last ch; sl st in top of first dc to join. (64 dc made)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc and in each dc all around, sl st in top of first dc to join.
Rnd 3-10: As in rnd 2.
Rnd 11: As in rnd 2 but work in back loops only of dc. (Note: Working in blo will make this rnd softer than the ones worked in both loops. The softer round is to make folding the flap of the bag over easier. You can work in both loops of the stitch if you want a stiffer bag).
Rnd 12: (Work in both loops here and throughout) Ch 3+1 (count as 1 dc, 1 ch), sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, rep from * all around ending with ch 1, sk 1 dc, sl st in top of first dc to join.
Rnd 13: Sl st in ch-1 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, *ch 3, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk next ch-1 sp, 5 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk ch-1 sp, shell in next ch-1 sp, rep from * all around ending with 2 dc in first ch-2 sp in rnd 12, ch 1, hdc in top of first dc to join and bring hook to the middle of the sp just made.
Rnd 14: Ch 3, dc in same sp, *ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in same dc, ch 1, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 4 times, dc in same dc, ch 3, shell over shell, rep from * all around ending with 2 dc in first shell in rnd 13, ch 1, hdc in top of first dc to join and bring hook to the middle of the sp just made.
Rnd 15: Ch 3, dc in same sp, *ch 3, [sc in ch-1 sp, ch 3] 6 times, shell over shell, rep from * all around ending with 2 dc in first shell in rnd 14, ch 1, hdc in top of first dc to join and bring hook to the middle of the sp just made.
Rnd 16: Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, *ch 3, now working over ch-3 loops [sc in ch-3 loop, ch 3] 5 times, 6 dc in shell, rep from * ending with 3 dc in first shell of rnd 15, sl st in top of first dc to join.
Rnd 17: Ch 4 (count as 1 dc, 1 ch), dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 3, *now working over ch-3 loops [sc in ch-3 loop, ch 3] 4 times, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 6 times ending last rep with ch 3, rep from * ending with ch 1, sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd 18: Sl st to next ch-1 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, ch 1, 2 dc in next ch-1 sp, *ch 3, now working over ch-3 loops [sc in ch-3 loop, ch 3] 3 times, [2 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 5 times, rep from * ending with ch 1, sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd 19: Ch 3, dc in same dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, *now working over ch-3 loops [sc in ch-3 loop, ch 3] 2 times, [2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1] 5 times ending last rep with ch 3, rep from * ending with ch 1, sl st in top of first dc to join.
Rnd 20: Ch 3, dc in next dc, picot, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in each of next 2 dc, picot, dc in next dc, ch 3, *sc in ch-3 loop, ch 3, [dc in each of next 2 dc, picot, dc in next dc, ch 1] 5 times ending last rep with ch 3, rep from * ending with ch 1, sl st in top of first dc to join. Fasten off.

Block and dry. Then eave leather thongs or ribbon through ch sps in rnd 12.

Optional: You can use the bag as a purse by sewing a button on the inside with the middle ch-1 sp in rnd 12 as the buttonhole (see photo below).

Here, the bag uses a button sewn on the inside at rnd 12 for closure.

The bag used as a hand purse or clutch with the flap folded over. Use stiffer thread material such as hemp for this purpose. You can also use different colors for the top and bottom sections of the bag.

If you like this pattern and make a finished object, please let me know! I would love to see finished work or modifications of the patterns I make. If you’re on Ravelry, you may find me thru http://www.ravelry.com/designers/fatima-lasay. You can also visit my website at http://www.crochetology.net/

Happy Crocheting!
Fatima Lasay

Fatima Lasay is an artist/writer based in the Philippines.
For more patterns and other projects, visit http://www.ravelry.com/designers/fatima-lasay
or visit http://www.crochetology.net/

<!– @page { margin: 0.79in } TD P { margin-bottom: 0in } P { margin-bottom: 0.08in } –>

Crochet Terminology Conversion Chart

U.S Term U.K./Australia Term
sl st slip stitch sc single crochet
sc single crochet dc double crochet
hdc half double crochet htr half treble crochet
dc double crochet tr treble crochet
tr treble crochet dtr double treble crochet
dtr double treble crochet trip tr / trtr triple treble crochet
trtr triple treble crochet qtr quadruple treble crochet
rev sc reverse single crochet rev dc reverse double crochet
FPdc front post double crochet FPtr front post treble crochet
yo yarn over yoh yarn over

yfwd yarn forward

yrn yarn around needle
gauge tension
skip miss

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The Square Motif Belt with Pineapple Fringes

August 2nd, 2010 by fats No comments »

Photo showing the square motifs, and the position of ties and fringes.

Finally finished the prototype and the pattern for my new “Square Motif Belt with Pineapple Fringes.” I must admit that this, having started from motifs that I was intending to lace up in order to avoid the repetitively boring task of crocheting long numerous rows of the same stitch pattern to make a fabric, is an escapist project!

Luckily, I wanted to make a wide decorative belt to go over my trousers. However, I made this one just a little bit too long. Well, my abs can get bigger! ;)

But yes, I am getting back to making that bolero!

This wide hip belt is worked with join-as-you-go motifs . Edging and the fringed pineapple tips are worked separately. The belt body is crocheted with two strands of thread held together for strength while the pineapple edging is softer, worked with single strand of thread.

The crochet pattern for making The Square Motif Belt with Pineapple Fringes is now available as a PDF download for US$1.95. Please use the button below to purchase the pattern through my Ravelry Store. If you do not have PayPal or a Credit Card, or experience problems with the link, send an email to Fatima Lasay for other payment options.

Note: This is a PDF CROCHET PATTERN, not the finished product. A link to the Pattern PDF file will be delivered via e-mail within 48 hours of payment.

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Posted in Crochetology Journal, For Sale

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FO’s, take away projects, projects in hibernation and projects in transition

August 1st, 2010 by fats No comments »

Finally, here’s the finished Hairpin Lace Beret made from a modification of the Skullcap in Hairpin Lace pattern. Here, I used heavier weight yarn to increase the body of the cap, and then I modified the edging of the cap’s brim to create a band that decreases in size to fit around the head. If the brim is still too loose, simply crochet another decreasing row around the beret.

Using the same pattern for the Skullcap in Hairpin Lace Crochet with slight modification and change of yarn/hook to make a Beret.

While getting ready to go back to the country, WIPs have been piling up. For now, I see them as “take away projects”,

One take away project is a crocheted belt based on this antique Irish crochet lace evening belt from The Irish Lace Museum. The lace is worked in silk thread and hand beaded, and ties at the back with velvet and chiffon ribbon with pearl tips. This will be my practice project for learning Irish crochet, and hopefully in Baclayon, I will be able to focus and concentrate better on this project.

Antique Irish Crochet belt from the Irish Museum of Lace

I also have a failed project currently hibernating. Two days ago I embarked on an attempt to test my patience with crocheting a bolero, in particular, long and numerous rows of the same stitch pattern. I used green cotton thread size 8 and a 3mm crochet hook.

At that time, I noted:

July 30, 2010: But I really must learn to focus and be patient. I am now using a schematic for sizing (medium at the moment), and working with long rows for the patttern again (starting with the back section).

A wavy stitch pattern done in multiples of 6 - not so easy to make inc/dec for shaping!

Then in a few days later:

Aug 1, 2010: What a disaster. :) Plenty of lessons learned.

1. get the proper gauge swatch!
2. don’t trust measuring, count the rows!
3. establish inc and dec for the pattern before starting.
4. schematics are useful but I have a feeling it just isn’t right for crochet – ok for fabric but I think not really for crochet.
5. freeform is a lot easier!

I will try again! ;)

And here is a work in transition. I was hoping to re-create a halter top I made in 2007, but using the square motif.

July 23, 2010: I find it really hard to focus when making very long rows of stitches. Thus, I am modifying the pattern to make it modular – strips of granny squares perhaps to be laced together (don’t want much sewing or sl st seaming either).

This started as motif square for a bolero/halter ...

July 3, 2010: This started as motif square for a bolero/halter that I was hoping to make but I thought it just wasn’t turning out right! So now it’s going to be a belt (I hope!). I need a wide lacy hip belt to cover up my bulging belly! :P

The transition is coming a long much better than I expected. Still under the influence of pineapples, there are pineapple motifs turning up in the process… :)

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Works in Progress, Works in Hibernation

July 29th, 2010 by fats No comments »

Little Pink Pineapple Pouch in crochet cotton thread 8 and 1.3mm crochet hook.

Thanks again to Bonnie, I’ve corrected and updated the pattern for the Little Pineapple Pouch, and have just completed a second pouch, this time in pink. Having completed this, I went back to making the Clones Knot, practising with the help of antique books, Maire Treanor’s video (taken by one of the students, Jeff, at an Irish Crochet workshop at Lacis), and the Irish Crochet Lover’s group in Ravelry.

Clones Knot in cotton 10 and .95mm hook

Clones Knot in cotton 10 and .95mm hook.

Here, above, is what I have practiced so far using two methods – method from Lula Harvey’s Priscila book (the two knots on top) and Maire’s method (the two knots under) as shown on the video . I used cotton 10 and .95mm steel hook. I am still more used to Lula Harvey’s method but I am starting to get a hold of Maire’s method. In both cases, my main problem is getting the knots 100% snug so that a loop will not fall out. Sometimes they look really perfect, tight, even, and sometimes they look horrible. ;)

Thanks to Cheri for the advise about the hook, which always goes under the thread in Maire’s method. Switching from Lula’s method I always felt that the hook needed to alternate between going under and going over.

Clones Knots in coton 8 and 1.3mm hook.

Knots in blue (above photo) – Thanks to Maire’s reminder to use ch 2, sl st to the other side of the knot – “This makes the knot sit up and is a lot more effective.” Now my typical problem is a loop sometimes coming loose as you can see in the photo. This was made with cotton 8 and a 1.3mm steel hook, a knot with 10 overs. I will practice more and now try to make these knots in the context of an actual project.

Now, my work in hibernation, the hairpin lace collar which I was attempting to do in cotton thread instead of fingering weight yarn.

Work in hibernation.

The development of the work as written in my notes:

July 24, 2010: I am using burgundy color cotton thread size 8 on a 4” staple with steel hook size 1.3mm. I use sc, then dc stitches per loop.

  1. 84 loops on each side made. Removed lace from staple but didn’t fasten off, continued to make loop (ch with sc) for button, then just made ch tall as the loops.
  2. With sc and ch 8 connecting 4 loops twisted one at a time.
  3. Didn’t fasten off but just made 16 ch to reach middle of lace, sc there, then 16 ch to reach loops on other side of the strip. With sc and ch 6 connecting 4 loops twisted one at a time.

Strip with edging is 20” long. Very soft, too soft, in cotton thread 8. The pattern is more feasible in fingering weight yarn. Unless, perhaps, one is inclined to starch the thread.

I am modifying the pattern to make a new piece.

Some lessons learned:

  1. It is better NOT to link the link the middle of the lace with the loops with ch, the ch distorts the shape of the lace. Better to fasten off.

July 26: (photo above) I tried connecting the tips of lower loops with a crochet lace edging but it is not working out structurally. Cotton is just too soft and this will not hold up as a necklace or collar if worked this way. I will try to find another way.

SKullcap in Hairpin Lace using dk/light worsted yarn and 4mm hook.

Skullcap pattern in DK/light worsted yarn and 4.0mm hook.

Anyway, I am still inclined to continue with hairpin lace crochet (above photo) this time doing the Skullcap in Hairpin Lace crochet but this time using heavier weight yarn, DK/light worsted instead of fingering. I am following the pattern with some modification on the Edging so as to make a larger cap, a beret. This work in progress looks more promising. Thank goodness.

Also, the pattern writing is improving, very meticulous work which I am beginning to like more and more. Even just a few feedback from people who have used my patterns help tremendously – and I get very few feedback, perhaps most people who use my patterns figure out errors in the patterns by themselves, which is what I do with other patterns too. :)

It’s late – the photos of the hairpin lace beret will be up tomorrow.

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Pineapple challenge 1 – the small pineapple pouch

July 27th, 2010 by fats 5 comments »

Thanks to Maria Merlino’s Pineapple Lovers and Haters Group, I got to meet lots of lovely people who adore the pineapple motif in crochet! There I met BonnieSD who was then looking for a pineapple pouch/bag. I made several lacy pineapple pouches to give away last Christmas, and so now I thought that could re-create the design and write the pattern.

It wasn’t easy! I started with two strands of cotton thread 8 and the pouch started looking big and the multiples were all wrong. I have never ripped up a project so many times before! Then finally, working with single strand thread, I managed a simple lacy pineapple pouch, shaped beautifully, and wrote down the pattern.

If you would like to test this pattern, please do and let me know if you run into any problems or if you find an error. I would also like to see the pouch in other types of thread, even in slightly heavier weight. I paste the pattern instructions below.

Use a ribbon tie with this crocheted Pineapple Pouch, or starch it to make a small lacy vase!


Pineapple Pouch

by Fatima Lasay (fats@crochetology.net)
Skill Level: Easy

Finished Measurements:
Base circumference = 2 ¾ inches
Height from base to top frill = 3 ¾ inches
Height from base to lace tie = 2 inches
Yarn: Crochet cotton thread, size 8, green
Hooks: Steel crochet hook size 3 (1.25mm)
Notions: Lace ribbon, 18 inches long (for tie)
Gauge: 34 sts and 15 rows = 4” (10cm) in double crochet
Terminology: Pattern is written using US crochet terminology.
Note: Pouch is worked from base to top.

Cute little pouch in pineapple motif - Use a ribbon tie or starch it to make a cute lacy vase! The perfect little pouch for gifting or souvenirs! Use for potpourri too. :)

Instructions
Pineapple Pouch

2dc-bobble: Yo, insert hook in st and pull thread through, yo and and pull through 2 loops on hook, Yo, insert in same st and pull thread through, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook.)
dc2tog: Yo, insert hook in st and pull thread through, yo and and pull through 2 loops on hook, Yo, insert in next st and pull thread through, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook.)

With crochet cotton size 8 ch 3 (count as 1 dc).

Rnd 1: 11 dc in first ch (12 dc made). Sl st in top of first dc to join.
Rnd 2:Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each dc, sl st in top of first dc to join. (24 dc)
Rnd 3: Ch 3, *ch 1, dc in next dc, rep from * all around ending with ch 1, sl st in top of first dc to join.
Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in same dc, *ch 2, 2dc-bobble in next dc, rep from * all around ending with ch 2, sl st in top of first dc to join.
Rnd 5: *Ch 7, sk 1bobble , sc in next bobble, rep from * all around. (12 ch-7 loops made)
Rnd 6: Sl st to corner of ch-7 loop, ch 3 (count as 1 dc), 6 dc in loop, *ch 2, 7 dc in next loop, rep from * all around, ending with ch 2, sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd 7: Ch 3, dc in next 6 dc, *ch 2, dc in next 7 dc, sk 2-ch sp, dc in next 7 dc, rep from * all around ending with sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd 8: Sl st to top of 2nd dc, ch 3, dc in next 5 dc, *ch 3, dc in next 6 dc, sk 2 dc, dc in next 6 dc, rep from * all around ending with sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd 9: Sl st to top of 2nd dc, ch 3, dc in next 4 dc, *ch 3, 5 dc in ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in next 5 dc, sk 2 dc, dc in next 5 dc, rep from * all around, ending with sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd 10: Sl st to top of 2nd dc, ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, *ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 4 times, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next 4 dc, sk 2 dc, dc in next 4 dc, rep from * all around, ending with sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd 11: Sl st to top of 2nd dc, ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, *ch 3, sk ch-3 sp[sc in ch-1 loop, ch 3] 3 times, sc in last ch-1 loop, ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, sk 2 dc, dc in next 3 dc, rep from * all around, ending with sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd 12: Sl st to top of 2nd dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, *ch 3, sk ch-3 sp, [sc in ch-3 loop, ch 3] 2 times, sc in last ch-3 loop, ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, sk 2 dc, dc in next 2 dc, rep from * all around, ending with sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd 13: Ch 3, dc in next dc, *ch 3, sk ch-3 sp, sc in ch-3 loop, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 loop, ch 3, dc2tog in next 2 dc, ch 5, dc2tog in next 2 dc, rep from * all around, ending with ch 5, sl st in top of first dc to join.
Rnd 14: Ch 6 (make 1 dc, ch 3), *sk ch-3 sp, sc in ch-3 loop, ch 3, 7 dc in ch-5 loop, ch 3, rep from * all around ending with 6 dc in last ch-5 loop. Sl st in top of dc (3rd ch of ch 6) to join.
Rnd 15: Ch 6 (make 1 dc, ch 3), *sk (3 ch, sc, 3 ch), dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 6 times, ch 3, rep from * all around ending with ch 1, sl st in top of first dc to join.
Rnd 16: Sl st to ch-1 sp, *ch 3, dc in ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in ch-1 sp] 6 times, rep from * all around.
Rnd 17: Sl st up ch 3 to tip of dc, ch 3, 2 dc in same dc, *[ch 3, sc in ch-3 loop] 5 times, ch 3, 3 dc in next dc, rep from * all around ending with ch 3, sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd 18: Ch 4 (count as 1 dc, ch 1), dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, *[ch 3, sc in ch-3 loop] 4 times, ch 3, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 times, dc in next dc, rep from * all around ending with ch 3, sl st in first dc in to join.
Rnd 19: Ch 3, dc in same dc, *[ch 1, 2 dc in next dc] 2 times, [ch 3, sc in ch-3 loop] 3 times, ch 3, 2 dc in next dc, rep from * all around, ending with ch 3, sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd 20: Ch 3, dc in same dc, *[ch 1, 2 dc in next dc] 5 times, [ch 3, sc in ch-3 loop] 2 times, ch 3, 2 dc in next dc, rep from * all around, ending with ch 3, sl st in first dc to join. (You should have 12 2-dc groups in each scallop)
Rnd 21: Ch 3, dc in next dc, *[ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook to make picot, dc2tog in next 2 dc] 5 times, ch 3, sc in ch-3 loop, picot, ch 3, dc2tog in next 2 dc, rep from * all around, ending with ch 3, sl st in first dc to join. Fasten off.

Block and dry. With lace ribbon, weave in rnd 14, keeping ribbon behind 7-dc group. Tie ends of lace ribbon into knot.

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Posted in Crochetology Journal, Free Patterns

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