Constructing with the Trellis Stitch

With the Plain Trellis Stitch:

A multiple of 4 stitches + 3.
(Add 3 for base chain).

1st Row. 1 sc into 6th ch from hook, *5 ch, skip 3 ch, 1 sc into next ch; rep from * to ed, turn.
2nd Row. *5 ch, 1 sc into next 5-ch arch, repeat from * to end, turn.
Rep 2nd Row.

Tip:
For a firmer fabric, work the single crochet in the center chain of 5, instead of in the chain space.

Crochet a sleeveless blouse, or a dress.


pink-top-in-lacy-back-sml

Detail showing trellis with block and diamond patterns.

This crochetology problem is an exploration of one of the simplest in the category of openwork and lace patterns: the Plain Trellis Stitch.

The Trellis Stitch is also known as “fishnet chains” and “arch mesh.” It is also commonly found as net or mesh background in Irish crochet.

Below is another instruction/chart for the Trellis Stitch.

arch-mesh

In designing the garment, you can incorporate other patterns or variations of the Trellis Stitch.

One variation of the Plain Trellis Stitch that I used is the Shell Trellis Stitch.

Shell Trellis Stitch

Multiple of 12 sts + 1 (add 2 for base chain).
1st Row (right side). 2 dc into 3rd ch from hook, *skip 2ch, 1 sc into next ch, 5 ch, skip 5ch, 1 sc into next ch, skip 2 ch, 5 dc into next ch; rep from * ending last rep qith only 3 dc into last ch, turn.
2nd Row. 1 ch, 1 sc into first st, *5ch, 1 sc into next 5-ch arch, 5 ch, 1 sc into 3rd dc of next 5 dc; rep from *ending last rep with 1 sc into top of tch (turning chain), turn.
3rd Row. *5 ch, 1 sc into next 5-ch arch, 5 dc into next sc, 1 sc into next arch; rep from * ending 2 ch, 1 dc into last sc, skip tch, turn.
4th Row. 1 ch, 1 sc into first st, *5 ch, 1 sc into 3rd dc of next 5 dc, 5 ch, 1 sc into next 5-ch arch; rep from * to end, turn.
5th Row. 3 ch (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc into first st, *1 sc into next arch, 5 ch, 1 sc into next arch, 5 dc into next sc; rep from * ending last rep with only 3 dc into last sc, skip tch, turn.
Rep 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th rows.

In my work, I re-arranged the shells in the Shell Trellis Stitch so that the shells form a diamond pattern.

To complement the Trellis design (which is used largely for the lower section of the blouse), I decided on the block and diamond pattern for the bodice.

Block and diamond pattern:

CL2 (2-dc cluster): (Yo and draw up a lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook) two times in same stitch, yo and draw through all 3 lps on hook.
CL3 (3-dc cluster): (Yo and draw up a loop, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook) three times in same stitch, yo and draw through all 4 lps on hook.

Make foundation chain.
Row 1. 7 dc, ch 3, sk 3 ch, dc on 4th ch, ch 3, 7 dc.
Row 2. 7 dc, sk 3 ch, CL3 in dc, ch 3 CL3 in same dc, sk 3 ch, 7 dc.
Row 3. 7 dc, ch 3, sl st in 3-ch loop, ch 3, 7 dc.
Rep from row 1.

Hem:

For this blouse, I used the same basic chain loops and clusters as the basis for this scalloped edging. Try experimenting with other trimmings.

Sl st to center of 5-ch loop.
Row 1. Ch 3, dc in 3rd ch of next 5-ch lp, ch 3, dc in same ch, ch 3, sc in next 5-ch lp. Rep to end.
Row 2. 3 sc in 3-ch sp, 4 sc in 3-ch sp bet dc, 3 sc in 3-ch sp, sc in sc. Rep to end.
Row 3. Dc, sk 3 sc, (3DCL in next sc, ch 1) four times, sk 3 sc, dc in next sc. Rep to end.
Row 4. Dc in dc, *dc in first cl, ch 2, dc in 2nd cl, ch 2, dc in 3rd cl, ch 2, dc in 4th cl, dc in dc; rep from * to end.
Row 5. Sl st to 2-ch sp, *tr, ch 2, tr in next 2-ch sp, ch 2, tr in same sp, ch 2, tr in next 2-ch sp, sk 3 dc, rep from * to end. Join with sl st to beg tr.
Row 6. 3 dc in first 2-ch sp, 3 dc in 2nd 2-ch sp, 3 dc in 3rd 2-ch sp, dc bet next 2 dc. Rep to end.
Rep rows 1, 2, 3.

To shape the neckline and armholes, decreasing Trellis Stitches are used. The straps are also made entirely of Trellis Stitches.

Below is a schematic of the design of the sleeveless blouse. You can start with a study drawing such as this to see how the different stitches and patterns fit together. In my case, however, I usually start by crocheting one section of the garment (usually the front bodice) and then develop the rest of the design along the way.

Construction schematic for the blouse.

Construction schematic for the blouse.

8 thoughts on “Constructing with the Trellis Stitch”

  1. Hello,

    I found your wonderful website and I must congratulate you, you are incredibly talented and skilled.

    I am a total beginner and I would like to crochet a simple summer top with the diamond stitch pattern. Nothing spectacular really. I already started practising and it works al fine…. except I have no idea how to make the colar and the parts around the arms. Do you have any instructions on that? It would really help, thank you, Nadia

    1. Hi Nadia, one of the simplest way to work the neckline and armhole (assuming you’re doing a sleeveless top) is to make 2 rounds of single crochet (or double crochet if you’re using UK crochet terminology) evenly spaced around the armhole edging and neckline. If you have access to Lion Brand free patterns, you can look at this simple top which uses two rounds of sc around the armholes and neck – http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/90416AD.html?r=1

      LionBrand also has a free pattern, a Mesh Raglan, which works a slightly more decorative trimming for the neckline, see http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/L0168AD.html?noImages=0 – but is also fairly easy to do, it is a simple shell/scallop of (sc, ch 3, dc).

      I think that these simple trimmings for neckline and armholes should work with your diamond stitch pattern. Just work evenly all around.

      I hope this helps. And thanks for stopping by!

  2. Hello,

    thank you very much for the links. I looked at the instructions… and I am afraid this is chinese for me, I think I will have to figure it out on my own somehow.

    I did try yesterday a few things before writing my first post….. and I am really clueless, how to do the neckline and the right armpit. I didnt have a problem with the left side because you start reducing the cells moving from left to right, which is the stitching direction, so that works just fine…. but as I moved across the top and approached the right side of the top, I run into the first problem. What I wanted to do is to reduce 2 cells on both sides of the row for a steep decline around the armholes. And like I said, on the left side it is not a problem… instead of making 2 new cells in the mesh pattern, I simply croched it throuch…. and then for the third cell I diagonally cut the cell in half and continued with the row doing normal cells. But when I approached the right side, I noticed, I cant do the same on this side….. becauce how?
    I mean I could do it the same way as on the left side…. but then my yarn will be at the very end and how am I suppised to continue with the next row?

    But nevermind the armholes, I think I could somehow manage… but the neckline is a complete mystery to me. Unfortunately there is nobody in my family to teach me. Sigh….

    Btw, if you are interested in what I planned making, please take a look:
    http://www.pic-upload.de/view-12996366/Bild1.jpg.html

    It really isnt difficult to make…. I dont have a pattern for it, but since it is so simple, I figured it out just by thinking about it. I can make the main part without any problems whatsoever…. it is just the arms and the neckline, that are a problem. I am a bit discouraged at the moment. *sad Nadia* I dont want to give up!

    1. Don’t give up! And don’t read patterns, because it seems that free-form (or spontaneous crocheting) is more for you. Almost all of my crocheted garments were made by free-form or some kind of intuitive crocheting. Here are some other garments that I made using a basic pattern and then turning them into garment shapes (see links below).

      Now if I understand your problem correctly, assuming you are making the front of the garment and want to make the right side, what you need to do is fasten off and then join the yarn to where the row should split to create the shape of the neckline at the front center.

      The neckline trimming of the garment you wish to make is scalloped, looks like a (ch 4, 3 dc in base of ch 4, sc in next sp) – but you can easily work that out I’m sure because you already managed the garment body!

      I hope this helps! Good luck! :)

      http://crochetology.net/2009/09/exploring-all-over-patterns/
      http://crochetology.net/2009/12/dress-in-wave-stitch/

  3. Hello Fatima,

    a little update on my project. I havent started yet, because I cant find proper material for it.

    What yarn do you use for crocheting the fine blouses? And where do you buy it?

    I am a bit desperate to tell you the truth. I went to several shops and the finest cotton yarn they had was 50g on 180m, but thats too thick. I would like to crochet a lightweight, and soft top, that drapes nicely around the body and not a medieval armor out of it. Of course they also have fine cotton threads, that are around 50g on 250m, but thats too thin again.

    What would you recommend me? Thank you for your kind help, Nadia

    1. Hi Nadia, are you buying on-line or in your location (where is your location?)?

      There’s a really nice website here explaining all about cotton threads – http://www.crochetmemories.com/crochet1.php

      I think those are popular US brands of cotton thread. So I am not sure if they are available in your location. Of course, you can order them on-line too.

      My crocheted blouses and dresses are all Philippine cotton thread size 8. Sometimes I use rayon (cellulose or artificial silk) also size 8. These are 50 gram balls at 175 yards (160 meters). These weight of yarn would also generally be referred to as 3-ply light fingering weight yarn. Similar European cotton yarn that I found are the following:

      Finla kalalanka and Kotiväki by Novita http://www.novita.fi/
      Maxi by Madame Tricote http://www.madametricote.com/
      Coco by Vita http://www.yarntrade.ru/
      Hana by Unitas http://www.unitas.hr/
      Cable 5 Filo Di Scozia by Mondial http://www.lanemondial.it/
      Virkkuulanka by Esito http://www.esito.fi/
      Baumwolle Mako by Patricia http://www.karstadt.de/

      I hope this helps!

  4. Thank you so much for your wonderful links.

    But I must say, that I am confused a little. Have you crocheted the pink trellis stitch top in this blog entry with a 50g/160m thick yarn? Beacause I know now out of experience how thick the yarn is and that cant be… The structure of your pink top is so fine, that you cant have used a yarn this thick.

    I want to make a top like this one: http://www.pic-upload.de/view-12996366/Bild1.jpg.html

    What kind of yarn is that made of? 50g/160 is just too thick for it, the cells of the rellis stich look huge and all in all it is not a pretty sight when I crochet the diamond stitch with it. It is also so stiff and doesnt flow.

    Btw, I live in Vienna, Austria. Thats central Europe. :)

    1. The way a thread is plied also affects the loft of the yarn, and plying can vary per manufacturer. It also depends the size of hook you use. For that top I think I used 1mm steel hook.

      Oh – and that should actually be 175 meters and not 175 yards, sorry for the typo!

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