The first project I completed using a book from The Antique Pattern Library (APL) was the Princess Louise Crocheted Bag no. 275. The pattern is from Corticelli Lessons in Crochet Book I (also a few new designs for knitting), published by the Corticelli Silk Mills, Florence Massachusets, 1916. The bag called for the “Princess” Pearl Crochet Cotton threads made by the Corticelli Silk Mills. The same company also produced CMC Cardonnet and Corticelli Silk.

Here is a closer look at thread labels: Belding Coritcelli Richardson and the Corticelli cat.

An even larger and older thread company is DMC (History of the company Dollfus Mieg & Cie). And it turns out that it was DMC that published the book “The Complete Encyclopedia of Needlework” by Austrian Theresa von Dillmont in 1886. The book was translated into 17 languages and published in more than two million copies.

Below is a page from the Corticelli book showing the Princess Louise Crocheted Bag no. 275. It seems that bags such as these of the period were also called “work bag.” On the lower left corner of the page is the Princess Pearl Cotton seal and the words: “See that the “Princess” head is on the label of each ball.” Obviously, Corticelli was concerned about imitations of their cotton threads.

The top photo is my finished Princess Louise Crocheted Bag. It took me five days to finish the bag. Hand stitching the lining of the bag took an awfully long time.

And below is the pattern for the Princess Louise Crocheted Bag no. 275.

My working notes on Princess Louise Crocheted Bag no. 275:

There seems an error in the 4th round – the tips of the spokes were connected by ch-5 and ch-3 alternately, resulting to a tightening of the “wheel.” I decided to use ch-5 evenly.

The pattern was a good way of understanding how corners are created (at least in the context of “squaring a circle). Additional stitches made the necessary corner turns except at the 8th round which would be ‘force-turned’ anyway on the 9th round.

I made the top border of the bag a bit wider by adding a 1-ch, 3-dc round. The border can be made even wider actually, applying instructions for the 8th and 9th round of the bag body, followed by the 1-ch, 3-dc round where the bag’s cord is inserted.

Instead of directly joining the two sides of the bag with dc through both spaces of both sides, I decided to give the bag more side space by making a dc in one space of one side, make a picot and join with a dc to the space in the other side.

Instead of 6 discs, I made only two discs and attached them to the sides of the bag rather to the slip balls. I also made the slip balls of slightly different sizes to lessen the symmetry of the bag. The slip balls and the cord are made of heavier thread of same color (I used yarn that was left of the purple purse I made a month ago!)

And finally, succeeded in putting a lining inside the bag. I used Italian wool which was quite difficult to keep together for hemming, so basting with running stitch, rather than tacking with pins, helped a lot.

Postscripts:

I thought that I could make another ‘work bag’ using the pattern for an insertion but that didn’t quite work out. The original idea was to implement the insertion to the structural method of making a ‘work bag’ as demonstrated in the Princess Louise crocheted bag. (The insertion (which is found in the same Corticelli book) I was fancying is depicted below).

Somehow, that didn’t make sense since the logic of the insertion was different from the logic (chirality) of the work bag. The work bag is constructed radially from the center, but the length of the insertion is made by working right to left, turning, and right to left again until the desired length is reached.

Perhaps the work bag can be compared to a rosette and the insertion to a frieze which employ different methods of constructing patterns over a planar surface. BUT: Usually, friezes are constructed by the method of rosette multiplication, where discrete friezes are derived multiplying by means of a discrete translation or glide reflection a certain rosette with the symmetry group C1 (1), C2 (2), D1 ( m), D2 (2m) – that means, by an extension from the “local symmetry” of the symmetry groups of finite friezes G210 to the “global symmetry” of the symmetry groups of friezes G21. From “The Theory of Symmetry and Ornamental Art” by Slavic Jablan, Belgrade, 1989.

Thus, the insertion pattern can still be seen as fitting the method of the work bag. The insertion’s pattern of 3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc over same 5-ch, is actually quite similar to the work bag’s 5th round pattern (ch 3, 3 dc).

Variation 1: The Prince Edward Crocheted Bag no. 001

Inspired by the Princess Louise crocheted bag, I decided to make a bag for Edward. This variation on the Princess Louise crocheted bag is called “Prince Edward Crocheted Bag no. 001? and is probably my first Irish crochet project.

So what is Irish crochet?

Irish crochet is a type of lace, which has its origin in the famine years of the 19th century in Ireland. It has been conducted by nuns from the Venetian needlepoint lace, which is also a raised lace like Irish Crochet. Compared to other crochet laces Irish Crochet is padded with a thicker cord to give it a three dimensional look. There are some different types of Irish Crochet like Roslea and Clones Lace, which shows up huge snowflake knots in its netting.

Also, Irish crochet involves the construction of various motifs which are then assembled together with a mesh background. As seen on the Prince Edward crocheted bag, the chain and picot pattern around the rose flower motif is an example of one design of such a mesh. There are several others.

According to the Irish crochet exhibition notes of the Lacis Museum of Lace and Textiles, “the mid 1800’s found Ireland in the midst of a devastating famine. A potato blight had obliterated the agricultural mainstay of the nation. The country was in desperate need of a lucrative commodity to lift it out of its declining state. Lace-making was a profitable business, but the traditional methods were too slow to afford the quick relief that the country needed. In an effort to copy the treasured and exquisite forms found in the valued Venetian Needle lace and the more delicate filigree of Rosaline lace, emerged a distinctive style of crochet that proved to be both quick and profitable. It soon became known as “Pt. d’Irlande’ in the countries who sought its beauty. It is a style that has earned the right to stand alone, a thing of beauty, to be admired, coveted and collected by the best of collectors. Its delicate filigree and bold relief still speak of dedication, skill and the desire for a better life.”

Prince Edward crocheted bag no. 001
(A sample of Irish crochet, improvisation of the Princess Louise crocheted bag no. 275)
by Fatima Lasay

Pattern instructions:
Rose flower motif:

The petals of the rose flower are constructed radially, the middle cluster first and the second cluster under the first, and the third cluster under the second.

Rnd 0: Ch 7, join to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 5, 1 tc in ring, (ch 3, 1 tc in ring) four times, ch 3, join.
Rnd 2: 1 dc, 5 tc, 1 dc under each 3-ch loop (First cluster of petals made).
Rnd 3: Sl st to back of tc in Rnd 1, (ch 4, 1 sc at back of tc in Rnd 1) six times.
Rnd 4: 1 dc, 7 tc, 1 dc under each 4-ch loop (Second cluster of petals made under the first).
Rnd 5: Ch 5, 1 dc on dc of previous Rnd, (ch 5, 1 dc on next dc) all around.
Rnd 6: 1 dc, 7 tc, 1 dc under each 5-ch loop (third cluster of petals made).
Fasten off.

Background (start with sc on center tip of petal):
The inner mesh consists of chain stitches and picots, separated from the outer mesh by a round of tc).
Rnd 7: Ch 6, sc on 2nd ch, ch 6, sc on 2nd ch (a picot group made), ch 2, sc on center of next petal. Repeat all around.
Rnd 8: (Sl st to center of a picot group, ch 6, sc on 2nd ch, ch 6, sc on 2nd ch, ch 2) repeat for 3 groups, doubling on 4th group for corners, until end of rnd. Sl st to center of first picot group.
Rnd 9: (Ch 7, sc between picot group) repeat to end of rnd.
Rnd 10: 3 tc, 1 ch, 3 tc in each 7-ch loop.
Rnd 11: Ch 7, sc to 3rd ch, ch 7, sc to 3rd ch, ch 2 (picot group made), sl st to 1-ch space of previous rnd. Repeat to end, doubling for corners.
Rnd 12: Same with previous rnd.
Rnd 13: Same with previous rnd.
Rnd 14: (Ch 4, 3 tc in center of first picot group) Repeat to end, doubling at corners.
Rnd 15: (3 sc along 3 tc, 2 sc, ch 3, 2 sc) Repeat to end.
Fasten off.

Join edges:
Sl st in picot, *ch 6, sc into 3rd ch, ch 6, sc into 3rd ch, ch 2, sc into picot of other side. Repeat from * increasing at corners.

Top frill of bag:
Rnd 0: *Sl st in 3-ch picot, ch 5, sl st in sc above middle of 3-tc group, ch 5. Repeat from * to end of round.
Rnd 1: 2 tc in 5-ch, ch 1. Repeat to end.
Rnd 2: Sc in space, ch 3. Repeat to end.
Rnd 3: *Tc in sp, ch 3, sl st on top of same tc, tc in same sp, ch 3, sl st on top of tc just made, tc in same sp, ch 3, sl st on top of tc just made, ch 1. Repeat from * to end. Fasten off.

Drawstring-cord:
Chain suitable length with craft yarn and pull through rnd 1 pattern of top frill of the bag. Join with sl st to form ring.

Slip Balls:
The size of the slip balls can be adjusted by simply adjusting the number of rnds that increase and decrease the stitches to form the shape of the ball.

Rnd 0: With craft yarn, ch 6, join to form ring.
Rnd 1: Make suitable rnd of sc in the ring.
Rnd 2: *1 sc in sc, 2 sc in sc, repeat from *.
Rnd 3: Repeat rnd 2.
Rnd 4: *2 sc in sc, sk 1 st, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from *.
Rnd 5: Repeat rnd 4.
Rnd 6: Repeat rnd 2.
Rnd 7: *1 sc in sc, sk 1 st, repeat from *.

Pull one end of drawstring-cord through the ring, stuff with cotton and continue with decreasing sc to enclose. Close off with a sl st across the top hole between the drawstring-cord. This will keep the drawstring-cord from being pulled out of the slip balls. Fasten off.

Tassels:
Make a tassel by winding craft yarn around a 4-inch wide piece of cardboard. Cut the end of the loop and knot to the corner of the bag. Decorate the tassel with the same crocheted mesh used for the bag. I started with a 6 chain joined to a ring around the top of the tassel, and made 3 rounds of 3 groups of picots all around the tassel.

Make bag lining.

Variation 2: The Prince Edward Crocheted Bag no. 002

Unlike the Princess Louise and the Prince Edward 001 crocheted bag which are constructed radially from a center point, this Prince Edward 002 crocheted bag is constructed from four large medallions joined together by smaller medallions.

The large medallions were made using a technique called Maltese crochet (also referred to in this website as hairpin lace crochet). The small medallions were made with simple chain and double crochet stitches (to make picots).

Prince Edward crocheted bag no. 002
(A sample of maltese crochet, improvisation of Princess Louise crocheted bag no. 275)
by Fatima Lasay

Maltese medallion (make eight):
Make 8 strips of maltese crochet lace with 24 loops on each side.
Note: This pattern is a tightwad version of a pattern originally using 36 loops on each side intended for an antique nightgown yoke design.

Drawing together the center of the medallion: Take 3 loops with hook, twist once and slip stitch through. Repeat to end. You should have 8 spokes.Use needle and thread to firmly stitch together the ends of the mid-knots of the lace before proceeding with drawing together the outer loops of the medallion.

Drawing together the outer loops: Take 2 loops with hook, twist once and slip stitch through, ch 5 and continue around. Join. (You should have a total of 12 spokes). * 3 dc in the 5-ch space, ch 4, 3 dc in same space. Repeat from * onto next 5-ch spaces to end. Fasten off.

Small medallion (make 10):

Ch 8, join to form ring. * 2 dc, ch 4 to make picot, repeat from * making total of 8 picots. Fasten off. Using needle and thread or with slip stitch, join the maltese medallions and the small medallions together through the picots as shown in the photo below. Make for 2 sides of the bag.

Creating the mesh body of the bag:
With the joined medallions as central body of the bag, picot and chain loop meshes are made around, increasing the stitches at the places where there are corner turns. This is the same structure as the Princess Louise crocheted bag no. 275 and the Prince Edward crocheted bag no. 001.

Starting at the upper-center of the bag:
Rnd 0: Sl st into right picot of small medallion. Ch 6, sk 1 sp, sl st in next p, * ch 6, sl st into 3rd ch, ch 26, sl st into 3rd ch, ch 2, sc into picot of large medallion (forming picot group). Repeat from * twice. ** Ch 6, sl st into 3rd ch, ch 6, sl st into 3rd st, ch 2, sc into picot of large medallion. Repeat from ** with sc in same picot (this increases the st making the corner of the bag). Repeat * 3 times making last sc into p of small medallion. Ch 6, sk 1 p, sl st in next p, repeat * through ** to end. Sl st to center of first 6-ch loop made in the rnd.

Rnd 1: *Ch 6, sc in rd ch, ch 6, sc in 3rd ch, sc in center of p group of previous rnd, repeat from * to end increasing at corners.
Rnd 2: Same as rnd 1. Fasten off.
Rnd 3: Sl st to center of p group. Ch 7, * tc in same space, ch 4, tc in next p group, ch 4, repeat from * to end without nincreasing at corners.
Rnd 4: Sl st into 4-ch space, ch 2, 2 dc in same space, ch 1, * 3 dc in next space, ch 1, repeat from * to end increasing at corners. Fasten off.

Joining:
The two sides of the bag are joined with the chain picots with blue beads between the picots (replacing 2 chain stitches between picots). The beads of the needed quantity must first be stringed through the thread before beginning the crochet. The beads are then drawn one by one into the crochet as needed. Don’t forget to increase stitches at the two joined corners of the bag.

Top frills of the bag:
Rnd 5: Sl st to 1-ch space, ch 3, sc in next sp, repeat to end around top of bag, making 3 loops at sides of bag over the beaded p group.
Rnd 6: 2 dc in loop, ch 1, repeat to end.
Rnd 7: Same as rnd 5. (Rnds 6 and 7 make the heading through which drawstrings are run).
Rnd 8: 3 dc in space, ch 1, repeat to end.
Rnd 9: Sl st to 1-ch space, ch 5, sc to 2nd ch, ch 5, sc to 2nd ch, ch 1, sc to same space (one p group). Repeat to end.
Rnd 10: Same as rnd 9 but pull beads between picots (bead replaces ch st between p).

Drawstrings:
Using 2 strands of thread, ch to appropriate length (I used 225 ch). Run through heading of bag. Join ends of drawstring together with sl st, fasten off.

Tassels: (make 2)

Make 2 maltese strips for the tassels. Draw together the center loops as in the instructions for the medallions. Do not draw outer loops together as these form the frills of the tassels. Slip the tassels through the drawstrings before attaching the balls.

Balls:
The size of the slip balls can be adjusted by simply adjusting the number of rnds that increase and decrease the stitches to form the shape of the ball.

Rnd 0: Ch 6, join to form ring.
Rnd 1: Make suitable rnd of sc in the ring.
Rnd 2: *1 sc in sc, 2 sc in sc, repeat from *.
Rnd 3: Repeat rnd 2.
Rnd 4: *2 sc in sc, sk 1 st, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from *.
Rnd 5: Repeat rnd 4.
Rnd 6: Repeat rnd 2.
Rnd 7: *1 sc in sc, sk 1 st, repeat from *.

Weave in all ends.
Make suitable lining for bag.

Prince Edward Crocheted Bag no. 001 now belongs to my niece in the USA, and Prince Edward Crocheted Bag no. 002 now belongs to a little girl from Germany.

Some lessons learned:

Even with the lining, the bags are rather soft because I used rayon crochet thread. It is advisable to use cotton crochet thread instead, as indicated in the antique pattern.