Making a paper pattern

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The other day, I gave the silky cashmere bolero a break and decided to make another bolero to try out a new yarn: Lotus Yarn’s Autumn Wind, a DK/sport weight yarn of cotton (90%) and cashmere (10%).

Autumn Wind - cotton and cashmere yarn from Lotus Yarns.

Autumn Wind - cotton and cashmere yarn from Lotus Yarns.

This time, I made a simple pattern based on my measurements. I drew the pattern on a clean sheet of newspaper. (The newspaper ink didn’t smudge on my yarn, but it may. So it might be better to use craft paper or Manila paper when available).

The first basic shape is a vertical rectangle with a width that’s half my bust measurements and a height that’s from the base of my neck to my waist. I usually add more ease around the arms and bust and less at the waist.


I am assuming that this will be a patter for a top that goes to my waist at the most. If you make a longer rectangle, then it could be a dress.

The bolero pattern as drawn on a newspaper.

The bolero pattern as drawn on a newspaper.

The length of the rest of the lines on the pattern are based on my own body measurements, as depicted in the illustration below.

The basic pattern.

The basic pattern.

Afterwards, I crocheted the motifs and arranged them onto the paper pattern.

I made full motifs and half motifs when necessary.

I made full motifs and half motifs when necessary.

Then I joined the motifs together using a combination of chain stitches, double crochet, treble crochet and single crochet. What stitches to use and in what number and order really depend on the distances that are being spanned.

Joining the motifs and covering some areas with mesh stitches.

Joining the motifs and covering some areas with mesh stitches.

I fasten off and join the yarn to other places to join and to cover, as the motifs are irregular in shape and it isn’t possible to crochet all the motifs together continuously.

Fasten off and start at other parts of the work when needed.

Fasten off and start at other parts of the work when needed.

I work the left front, the right front, then the back of the bolero. When done, these parts are to be sewn together at the seams. But remember that before doing any sewing, use some yarn to tie the seams together first and then do a fitting.

The two front sections of the bolero.

The two front sections of the bolero.

Usually I work on the right side of the bolero, sometimes it is necessary to work on the wrong side. It all depends on which direction I need to crochet to join the motifs and to make a good lacy coverage of stitches.

The paper pattern and the bolero - work in progress.

The paper pattern and the bolero - work in progress.

This kind of work may seem daunting but once you have gathered the courage to begin joining the motifs, you will realize that it is fairly easy, especially with dk/sport weight yarn. Doing this kind of work in finer thread is much more difficult. I really recommend thicker yarn like dk/sport weight if you are just beginning to learn free form crochet like this.

A good yarn weight to start learning free form and joining motifs.

A good yarn weight to start learning free form and joining motifs.

The use of a paper pattern has made work much easier for me too. Some people work with a tailor’s dummy. Some people work with dressmaker’s patterns. You can make your own pattern on paper or cheap cloth. You can make separate patterns for the front and the back of the garment.

From a basic pattern, you can easily develop shapes and fittings in crochet.

Exploring silky cashmere

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Silky Cashmere Fingering from Lotus Yarns

Silky Cashmere Fingering from Lotus Yarns

Silky Cashmere Fingering
Fibre: 55% Silk/45% Cashmere
Yardage: 400 yards/20oz (365meters/55grams)
Hook: Aluminium crochet hook 4/0 (2.5mm)


The yarn came in hanks, and at fingering weight, can be easily unwound from the hank (either on a swift or the back of a chair) and made into centre-pull balls. Although I haven’t yet managed to make a decent centre-pull ball because the tail end of the yarn was always disappearing into the ball as it gets bigger. Maybe next time.

The yarn is viciously soft and shiny – thanks to the combination of silk and Mongolian cashmere. The yarn also has similar qualities to a thread that I am quite familiar with – rayon. Rayon is artificial silk (viscose) and is quite shiny too. However, Silky Cashmere has resiliency that rayon doesn’t have.

I started using this yarn following a necklace pattern that I designed (originally for cotton) some time ago. Then I enlarged this pattern to make a shrug/scarf. I thought that this was a good way to get to know the yarn better, using only small quantities of the yarn for testing.

Five motifs completed.

Five motifs completed.

Now what I have in mind for this yarn at the moment is a lacy bolero made up of motifs joined together in the free-form way. I completed five motifs following charted patterns in Duplet 112 and Duplet Swimsuit 3.

Motifs from Duplet crochet magazine.

Motifs from Duplet crochet magazine.

The motifs are then arranged on the table in the order that I intend to join them. I thought of the largest motif going on the upper back of the bolero and the smaller motifs on the shoulder/upper arm and the smallest motifs for the sleeves. The motifs are all different.

The motifs as joined.

The motifs as joined.

Before joining the motifs together, I made a ch-mesh outline around the motifs. I prefer to work the mesh of the type “dc, ch 3, dc.” Then I started joining them beginning along the upper portion of the bolero (the shoulder line). I decided to keep ths line fairly straight so the bottom portion may be irregularly shaped and could be more visually interesting.

Detail of the motif on the right sleeve of the bolero.

Detail of the motif on the right sleeve of the bolero.

The motifs selected for the bolero have strong edges reinforced by sc’s. I need good sturdy motifs and not light ones. I selected flat motifs for the back and shoulders and the last two motifs at the cuffs have 3-dimensional flowers. I wanted to keep the main body of the bolero fairly flat while the ends of sleeves can have a more 3-dimensional design.

Detail of the motif on thee left sleeve of the bolero.

Detail of the motif on the left sleeve of the bolero.

Hopefully, I will be able to make a size and fit that takes advantage of the mild resiliency of silky cashmere fingering yarn. This means a bolero that’s a bit fitting around the arms and shows off the lace design against the skin.

Detail of the motif on the back of the bolero.

Detail of the motif on the back of the bolero.

I didn’t use any needle joining for the motifs. This time, I used wholly crocheted joins. Work is much faster this way and teaches me to join irregular shaped motifs.

The work in progress.

The work in progress.