Free Pattern: One-Ball-of-Yarn Flower Headband

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This Project may be found in an older blogpost. I place the pattern here for people who cannot access the PDF pattern.

With one ball of fingering weight acrylic yarn, in this case, that's less than 25 grams, you can make this flower headband.

One-Ball-of-Yarn Flower Headband
Skill Level:
Easy
Designer: Fatima Lasay
Website: http://www.crochetology.net/

Finished Measurements: Approximately 14 ½ inches long x 2 ¼ inches wide (excluding ties).
Approximately 32 inches long with the ties.

Yarn: Acrylic yarn, fingering
Color:
One ball of yarn (25g) Ochre, small quantity of Black (for ties of headband)

My mother's latest bargain find - a packet of colorful fingering acrylic yarns made in China.

Hooks:
Aluminum crochet hook size 4/0 (2.50mm) Or size to obtain gauge

Notions:
Two beads of suitable hole size to fit crocheted chain
Round plastic stone with flat backing (1.5mm), pink
Yarn needle

Gauge: Center flower motif = 1.75 inches diameter
Terminology: Pattern is written using US crochet terminology (see chart on last page for conversion).


Instructions
Headband:
Note:
Headband is worked starting at narrow end.

With ochre color yarn, ch 12.

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in next 4th ch from hook, *ch 1, sk 1 ch, dc in next ch, rep from * 5 times, dc in last ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 2-5: Dc in next dc, *ch 1, sk ch, dc in next dc, rep from * 5 times, dc on top of turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 6-10: Dc in next dc and in each st to end, ch 3, turn.

Row 11-40: Rep rows 1-10 3 times more.

Row 41-45: Rep rows 1-5.

Row 46: (Small loops along side of headband) *Ch 4, sc in dc post along one side of headband, rep from * to end. Fasten off.

Make this Flower Headband in other colors to compliment the color of your hair.

(Small loops along other side of headband): Join thread to corner ch on other side of headband, *Ch 4, sc in dc post along side of headband, rep from * to end. Fasten off.

Flower:

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc in 3rd ch from hook, 10 more dc in same ch, sl st in first dc to join.

Row 2: *Ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, rep from * around ending with ch 5, sl st in base of first ch-5 loop (4 loops made).

Row 3: [Sc, hdc, dc, tr, ch 2, tr, dc, hdc, sc] in all four loops.

Row 4: Sl st behind sc between loops, *ch 7, sc in next sc between loop, rep from * around. (4 ch-7 loops made)

Row 5: [Sc, hdc, 3 dc, tr, ch 2, tr, 3 dc, hdc, sc] in all four loops. Fasten off.

Sew plastic stone to center of flower.

Attaching the flower motif to the headband (refer to photograph below for guide):
(Note:The crocheted flower is attached to the headband by crocheting a chain around the flower joined at the four petal points. It is at these four petal points that the flower is joined to the headband with a sc. Another option is to crochet the chain around the flower, fasten off, then just sew the flower onto the headband.)

Center the motif on the headband. You may also position the motif slightly nearer one end of the headband.

Join yarn with sc to first ch-2 tip of outer petal. Join to center of headband with sl st, *ch 12, sc in next ch-1 tip of outer petal, join to edge of headband with sl st, rep from * 3 more times. Fasten off.

With wrong side facing, fold one end of the headband over, touching the tip to the first row of dcs. Using the same yarn and a yarn needle, sew into place, with opening on the two sides for the ties to slip through later. Repeat for opposite end of headband.

Ties (refer to photograph below for guide):

Slip the tie into folded end of headband. Insert ends of tie into bead and make a knot.

Using black yarn, make two ties made of ch sts at least 20 inches long. Slip tie into folded end of headband. Insert ends of tie into bead and make a knot. Repeat for other tie.

Got more yarn? Make a cuff bracelet!

With some modifications of the pattern for the headband, you can make a cuff bracelet.

With some simple modifications of the pattern, you can make a cuff bracelet like this. For enclosure, sew one or two buttons at one end of the cuff and make loops at the other end. If you want a flatter flower motif like the one shown in the photo below, just sew down the tips of the inner petals.

Use buttons and crochet button loops for enclosure.

Crochet symbolcraft for the Flower Headband. (L-R) Symbolchart for the flower (you can crochet the flower with the ch-12 loops around it then sew on the headband); headband; folding the end of the headband and sewing in place for the ties to slip through. To learn about symbolcraft, visit http://crochetology.net/learn-crochet-symbolcraft

Happy Crocheting! :)

One-Ball-of-Yarn Slim Belt

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From the One-Ball-of-Yarn Challenge!
The One Ball of Yarn Slim Belt
Crochet Pattern PDF available for Download

USD 1.25 / Download

Worked with a single ball of yarn, this belt is very easy to make.

Work this belt in desired size, for adult or child, by simply varying the number of rows. A plus size belt may require more than one ball of yarn, and longer leather cord. Model shown (small size) measures 26 in long x 1 in wide excluding ties.

Now includes crochet symbolcraft!

This belt, worked in single ball of yarn and strengthened by synthetic leather cord, is intended less as a belt for style or decoration but more as support for trousers or other articles of clothing.

One ball of green acrylic fingering yarn.

You will also need:
Notions:
Sewing needle and scissors
Synthetic leather cord, 46 inches long
Wooden ring, 2mm diameter with hole 0.75mm

The perfect belt for fisherman's pants such as these!

One-Ball-of-Yarn challenge

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Colorful acrylic yarn from China.

Colorful acrylic yarn from China.

A few days ago, my mom gave me a packet of fingering weight acrylic yarns from China. She got them from her favorite bargain shop. All the yarns were of different colors. So how about a One-Ball-of-Yarn Challenge.

I started by joining the Crochet Jewelry of the Month group on Ravlery, a CAL using a free pattern called the Julie Cuff. I used the new yarns and it worked out okay. So I thought of making my own cuff bracelet and came up with one that also had a flower motif.

The Flower Cuff

The Flower Cuff

What I wanted was a cuff bracelet that had a bit more contrast in texture but I didn’t want to use more than one color, thus the Irish crochet flower laid on top of a regularly patterned background. I made the bracelet with about half a ball of acrylic yarn. With the yarn leftover, it is possible to make another flower. I have several plastic stones with flat backing stashed away so I thought this would be the chance to start using them.

Not quite happy with using only a small amount of yarn, I thought of turning the bracelet into a headband. This headband uses a bit less than a ball of acrylic fingering yarn, that’s about 20-25 grams of yarn. So here’s where the One-Ball-of-Yarn challenge started.

This flower motif headband can be made with just one ball of yarn.

It’s quite fun doing projects like these and reviving my fondness for the good old yarn. I learned to crochet with yarn – in bright red and yellow colors – many years ago. At the moment, I’m onto the next project for my One-Ball-of-Yarn challenge – a collar done in hairpin Lace crochet. :)

The On-Ball-of-Yarn Headband is available as a Free Pattern PDF. You can download it through this link

Please try out the pattern! :)

CAL: The Calico Bag (Handle, assembly, finishing)

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I love calico! :)


After making the first draft pattern for The Calico Bag, I am now making another Calico Bag to troubleshoot the pattern. If you’re interested in this as a Crochet-Along (CAL), feel free to join in. And if you like this pattern and make a finished object, please let me know; I would love to see finished work or modifications of the patterns I make. If you’re on Ravelry, you may find me thru this page.

Work on the bag handle started last night and finished today. Below is a photo of the handle in progress.

Calico bag handle in progress.

The handle is worked in the round, and the entire 55 rounds should make a handle approximately 15 1/2 inches long. The color pattern of the handle depends entirely on your creative decisions. You may also refer to the tail of your calico cat for inspiration. :) Remember, stuff the handle with kapok (or other filling material) as you work. One pod of kapok is enough to stuff the handle. Below is a photo.

Preparing kapok for filling.

Crocheting the seams of the bag

For the bottom of the bag, I decided to use sl st as seaming method, and sc for the sides of the bag. Below is a photo of the seaming in sl st, worked on the wrong side of the bag. I used white yarn.

Sl st seaming for the bag's bottom.

For the sides of the bag, I decided that the sc seaming method would be more flexible and thus suitable, in contrast to the sl st seaming which is much tighter so I used for the bottom of the bag. Below is a photo of the seaming in sc, worked on the wrong side of the bag. I used a color that matched one of the two sides of the bag.

Sc seaming for the sides of the bag.

And finally here is the handle and the body of the bag ready for assembly.

The handle and the bag body ready for assembly.

Bag Lining and Snaps
You may also sew a lining for the bag (line the bag before attaching the handles), and use magnetic snaps instead of Velcro strips. Here (photo below), I have sewn a lining for the bag and used magnetic snaps. Thanks to Mimi Alesis for the tips on attaching magnetic snaps.

The Calico Bag can be lined with fabric, and magnetic snaps can be used instead of Velcro strips.

To attach the magnetic snaps, I crocheted two circles the same color as the bag lining and slightly larger than the snaps. Then I attached the snaps to the crocheted circles and sew these to the bag.

Attaching the magnetic snaps.

CAL: The Calico Bag (Turning chains, changing colors)

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After making the first draft pattern for The Calico Bag, I am now making another Calico Bag to troubleshoot the pattern. If you’re interested in this as a Crochet-Along (CAL), feel free to join in.


Materials

I used acrylic yarn for this project. Some locally manufactured yarns tend to have uneven thickness, especially the Familia brand. So I just try to adjust by changing the tension of the stitches or changing hook sizes.

Acrylic yarn.

The Turning Chain
After writing the pattern, one of the first things I noticed was that I didn’t write about the turning chain.

In actual crochet work, I needed a turning chain in order to move on to the next row of stitches.

What is a turning chain?

According to Edie Eckman’s “The Crochet Answer Book”, a turning chain is the little chain worked at the beginning of a row to bring the hook up to the level of the stitches to be formed on the next row.

Making one ch at the end of the row. This ch serves as turning chain for the next row.

In single crochet, the turning chain is a single chain stitch. You make 1 ch at the end of the row and then you turn the work. Then you insert the hook into the last sc of the previous row.

Where to insert the hook

With The Calico Bag, I consistently insert the hook into the front loop of the stitch.

Inserting the hook into the front loop of the stitch.

Whether you insert the hook into the front loop, back loop or both loops of a stitch makes quite a difference in terms of the appearance of the fabric. Inserting the hook in one loop rather than two loops also makes a softer fabric.

Counting stitches in single color

If you are like me – hopeless at counting stitches – then this simple counting system might help. This applies to rnds 1-8 of the bag’s front section which is done only in one color, white (and where I have the most trouble counting!), as well as to any row with long blocks of the same color.

While working, I get distracted very easily and I lose count. So I count stitches only in multiples. for example, when making a row of 45 stitches, I count in multiples of 5. Counting 5 stitches is short enough not lose count when distracted and I can put down my work after the fifth count if I need to attend to something, and just get back to counting from 1 when I pick up again.

Changing Colors

In the pattern, I wrote that each color be worked in a single length of yarn unless the color changes were only 1-2 stitches apart along a single row. In the latter case, you can carry the unused yarn along the wrong side of the bag so it hangs there but not too tight or too loose. If you want the wrong side of the bag to be clean, you can catch and work around the unused yarns when you work the next row.

Rnd 9 of The Calico Bag: Changing from white to ginger.

To change color within the same row, work the sc until you have two loops on the hook (as shown in the photo above). Pick up the new color with a tail of about 6 inches. YO with the new color and pull through both loops on the hook. Continue with the new color.

Rnd 9 of The Calico Bag: After a single stitch in ginger, white follows again.

In the photo shown above, there is only one stitch in ginger and the next color is white. Since the distance between the colors is very short, it is not necessary to work each color in separate strands of yarn. Below is the back of the work after making 11 rounds.

Rnd 11: Showing the wrong side of the bag.

As shown above, the yarn can be carried loosely at the back of the work. If the loose strand is just 3-4 stitches long, you can stitch over it in the next round. If it is much longer, and if there are two strands overlapping (this can be bulky when worked over in the next round), you can just use a new length of yarn for each color, the loose ends of which can later on be woven in.

Here is the right side of the bag showing the color changes.

Below is the front of the bag, the complete 26 rounds, showing the color changes. The completed piece measures approximately 9 inches x 5 1/2 inches.

The front of the bag showing the right side.

The wrong side of the bag is shown below (gives an idea for a furry version of the Calico Bag!). In places where the distance between color changes is wide (say 3 or more stitches), I use a single length of yarn. Otherwise, I carry the unused thread on the wrong side of the work. It looks rather messy but the ends of the yarn are yet to be woven in for a cleaner look.

The front of the bag showing the wrong side.

Here, work on the back of the bag begins. The blocks of color on this part of the bag are larger and is thus actually easier to crochet since there are less complex color changes.

The back of the bag showing the right side. The rows of alternating ginger and white colors begin at round 9.

Below is the back of the bag showing the wrong side.

The wrong side of the bag showing the yarns carried across the rows.

I try to work as cleanly as possible with the wrong side of the bag, at the same time, taking care that the right side of the bag is not jeopardized. For example, working over the loose yarn tend to make the rows bulky and worse, some of the color show through the stitches. I try to avoid this as much as possible.

NEXT UPDATE: The handle, assembly and other new addtions.