Trippletimer Take 2

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I used 4-ply cotton yarn and 3mm crochet hook, this is a shorter, tighter version of “Trippletimer“, decorated with Irish crochet motifs. I started with a foundation chain (in multiples of 5 chs) that is about the length of half my underbust (you need to make the foundation chain longer if you wish to make a bolero that closes at the front). Adding 15 chains to this foundation chain, I followed the pattern instructions. The bolero is worked from the back-bottom, moving upwards, making the increase towards the front. When I have reached the desired length (from the bottom of the bolero to just below my armpits), I began to divide for the armholes.

I did not leave any loops open for the armholes and I decreased the two front sections near the neck so there is a slight curve at the neckline.

Having divided and worked upwards, the front left and right sides are joined to the back, leaving in the middle several loops as space at the back of the neck. Then the sleeves are crocheted in the round.

Before working the sleeves, you must count the number of loops on each armhole to make sure you have the same number of loops. Then you work in those loops the same trellis-picot pattern. However, you must devise a decrease in the round as you work the length of the sleeves. When you work the decrease for one sleeve, you must take note of the pattern so you can repeat exactly for the other sleeve.

For my bolero sleeve, I worked 3 rounds of 6-ch loops, then 3 rounds of 5-ch loops, then 8 rounds of decreasing 5-ch loops. Now the decrease of these loops in the round is a tricky one but I managed to find a way. What I do is simply, at the end of each alternating round, instead of a ch-5-sc in the last loop, I make a ch 2, dc in last loop, ch 2, and join to the first stitch. This results in a decrease of one loop at the last round. The next round, I work a ch 5, sc in dc, picot, ch 5, sl st in first st to join.

Another way to make the sleeve decrease is perhaps to crochet the sleeve in rows, decreasing at both sides then finish off and sew the seams together.

MAKING THE BOLERO
See Pattern at Trippletimer

trippletimerwip1trippletimerwip2trippletimerwip3trippletimerwip4trippletimerwip5trippletimerwip6trippletimerwip7trippletimerwip8trippletimerwip9trippletimerfo3

TRIM

Get your favourite lace trim to work along the edges of the bolero. The trim I used is this one, below.

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The Irish crochet motifs are all made using the same 4-ply cotton yarn with four strands of yarn as padding cord. The photographs below show how the leaf is made in Irish crochet. The leaf pattern (in symbol chart) may be found in Zhurnal MOD No. 533.

MAKING THE IRISH CROCHET LEAVES

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Prepare the padding cord of 4 or more strands of the same yarn as the working yarn.

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Join the working yarn to the padding cord with a sl st and a sc.

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Make a sc around the padding cord.

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Continue making more sc around the padding cord. The Zhurnal MOD leaf pattern calls for 22-24 sc, then turn.

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Here the piece has been turned, showing the back side of the sc stitches around the padding cord. We now need to work the second row of stitches of the leaf, this time, dropping or leaving the padding cord behind.

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As indicated in the Zhurnal MOD pattern, make 2 sl st, 2 sc, 6 dc, 2 sc and 4 sl st all in the back loops of each sc of the previous row.

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Here is the finished row. Back loop stitches make a nice ridge on the leaf. Now you must turn the leaf for the next row.

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Work back loop sc in each st as shown here, moving towards the tip of the leaf. When you reach the tip, turn.

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Here the piece has been turned and the padding cord is picked up again. The next row of back loop sc is worked along the leaf, covering the padding cord along the edge of the leaf.

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The finished leaf is shown here. You must turn the piece and begin the next row and the next leaf.

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Here the first row of the next leaf is being made, with the padding cord and back loop sc stitches.

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But you don’t work all the edge of the first leaf. You continue by orking sc around the padding cord only, and not joined to the edge of the first leaf, as shown here. The pattern call for about 15 sc on the padding cord alone. Then turn.

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Here, the open loop design of the leaf is begun, dropping the padding cord. Make a sc in the first st, then ch 4, sk 3 sts, sc in next st. make at least 3 of these then end with ch 2, sk 3 sts, dc in next st. Then turn.

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The next row of the open loop design is made. Make 4-ch and sc in next loop, and so on, ending with ch 4, sc in first sc at the tip of the leaf. Then turn.

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Now you will pick up the padding cord again, working around it with 4 sc in each loop of the leaf. The Zhurnal MOD pattern calls for 2 sc, dc, 1 sc to make a slightly uneven edging.

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Here is the finished two leaves, one is solid and the other has open design.

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To shape the leaf, you need to occasionally pull the padding cord. To flatten the piece, you can put the piece on a flat surface, then press with one hand while gently but firmly pulling the padding cord with the other.

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Here is the leaf after pulling the padding cord.

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And here is another solid leaf made afterwards. It is up to you to improvise on the original pattern, making 2 or 3 or 4 or 5 leaves on each motif, varying in sizes.

ASSEMBLY

Wash and block the bolero before sewing on the motifs. Apart from the leaves, I made some Irish crochet flowers.

The Irish crochet motifs are arranged on the bolero and then sewn at the back. You can pin the motifs first and then turn the bolero inside out, then sew.

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Maja – No Pattern Dress

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Here is a dress I made without use of a crochet pattern. I found this construction method very useful because I do not have a tailor’s dummy or dress form. The method I used for Maja and Corinthia is to begin with motifs. In Corinthia the motifs lie over the waist. In Maja the motifs lie over the bust. The motifs begin the shape of the dress.

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Once these motifs are made to the measurement you need, then it is easy to work upward (for the bodice, neckline and armholes) and downward (for the skirt) to construct the full dress. The three motifs make up the front of the dress bodice. There is no complicated shaping used in this dress. Crocheting the trim all around the neckline and all around the armholes is sufficient to make the shape. The trick is to use a basic stitch pattern that is flexible, for example, the trellis stitch, the trellis with picot stitch or the simple mesh.

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Maja is made up of two sections – Front and Back – and Front starts with three motifs. The three motifs in Maja lie directly over the bust and its width includes the armholes. The upper chest/neckline is added next, working upwards with left and right shoulders worked separately. After the front and back bodice are joined together, the skirt section is worked downwards, in the round.. The back is worked similarly without the motifs. There is no shaping other than the use of smaller hook at the waist.

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Maja is then decorated with Irish crochet motifs.

Maja is worked in Maharaja dyed silk from Silk Indian and 2.5mm hook.

Here, below, is the silk yarn. I wind the yarn into balls using a home-made yarn-winder.

Here are photos showing the basic dress in progress – starting with the 3 motifs that go at the front bodice of the dress. From there the top and lower section of the dress are crocheted.

Here are photos showing the Irish crochet motifs. I used worsted weight yarn of pink colour to match the silk as padding cord.

And here are the motifs being sewn onto the dress. And the finished dress below.

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Corinthia No Pattern Dress

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This is what I do when I make a dress without a pattern. I hope that this inspires you to do the same. And more.

Corinthia is an exercise in making a crocheted dress without the use of patterns and with only very minimal shaping. A basic dress is finished first then it is embellished with Irish crochet motifs.

conrinthwipschematic

Corinthia is worked in the round. Work starts at the waist: a strip of motifs joined together. Then the upper section is made up to the armpits, crocheting in rows with decrease at the front to shape the overlapping V-neckline. The V-neckline then commences separately towards the left and right Front shoulder. The low back and shoulder for the Back is added on separately. The skirt section is worked down from the waist, in rounds. There is no shaping as the motifs already narrow at the waist, gathers a bit then flares very slightly as work is done downwards.

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The upper part of the dress is worked in a trellis with picots stitch pattern. This is easy to shape. The lower part of the dress is worked in alternating rounds of sc, dc-ch-dc, dc, etc. – just to create an interesting mesh design.

MAKING THE BASIC DRESS

After the basic dress is finished, Irish crochet motifs are made and sewn onto the dress.

MAKING THE IRISH CROCHET MOTIFS

The hook I used for this project is 2.25mm and the yarn is 3-ply silk-acrylic and thicker 8-ply cotton yarn for the padding cord.

Some lessons:

Crochet dresses tend to stretch due to gravity. They stretch more with every washing and most specially when hang to dry. Stretch is prevented by drying flat and flat storage.

However, I tend to prefer hang dry because this allows the crochet fabric to dry faster. During the cooler and wet seasons, crochet fabric take longer to dry and have that unpleasant smell if they do not dry properly.

If you use a blocked gauge swatch, you can crochet the garment to a size approximating that of the washed finished garment taking into account stretch through washing and gravity. However, a blocked gauge can’t really account for gravity during wear.

So what I do is trial and error especially when using a yarn I am not familiar with. When I finish a basic garment (without the motifs), I try to make them shorter than the desired finished length. If the garment stretches after washing (and hanging to dry), I adjust the shoulder length. This is why I often leave tail ends undone until I am perfectly certain that the garment will no longer stretch.

Sewing a lining to the dress is another solution. The lining, especially when sewn at the seams, will keep the crochet fabric from stretching. I have not tried this before, though, so I have no experience to speak of of this solution.

Finishing stitches are also a solution. The finishing done along the neckline, armholes, and shoulders as well as the waist in some cases, provide the “back bone” for the dress. A good strong finishing/trim of solid tight stitches will have the least tendency to stretch.

Or – of course – you can use yarn that has the least tendency to stretch and change its shape due to gravity, washing or other. Cotton is one example I can think of. It has only a mild tendency to stretch.

One solution I have tried is to crochet the yarn together with polyester thread of matching colour, as polyester thread will not stretch.

Lantana Flower

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Make the Lantana Flower as corsage or attach to a crocheted strap to make a necklace or hair ornament.

You will need: Crochet cotton thread size 8 or 10: bright pink, green, yellow, yellow-orange, pale pink, pale yellow.


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Hook: Steel crochet hook size 1mm

Gauge: Gauge is not very important in this project

Terminology: Pattern is written using US crochet terminology

Pattern Instructions

Lantana Flower:

Center buds: With yellow-orange thread, *ch 7. Holding the ch taut with the thumb and middle finger of the left hand, thread over hook, point the hook towards you and swing it under the chain, catch the thread from under the chain and pull it up – there should now be three loops over the hook (one “over” completed). Make a total of 5 overs. YO and pull thread through all 11 loops on hook, ch 1 to tighten the loops into a knot, sl st in ch at base of knot (Clones Knot completed). Sl St down the ch. Rep from * to make 10 buds. Sl st in ch of first bud stem to make a ring, fasten off.

It can be tricky pulling the thread through all the loops on the hook. I have found that it is easier to do this if I push the overs near the shank of the hook as I make them. This will make the loops of the overs a bit bigger and more even so passing the hook and thread through them will be easier. So don’t work the overs too close to the tip of the hook. Also, when you are about to pull the thread through all the loops, relax your grip on the loops/overs, just let the tip of the hook do all the work of catching the thread and passing it through all the loops. I have found that there’s less chance of the hook getting caught in the overs if you release your grip on them.


Middle ring: With pale yellow thread, *ch 7. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch (first stem made); rep from * to make 10 stems. Sl st in ch of first stem to make a ring, fasten off.

With yellow thread, attach with sc to tip of first stem. *[Ch 3, sl st in sc (picot made)] 5 times, ch 3, sc in tip of second stem, rep from * on 4 stems. Fasten off and continue putting picots on the remaining 6 stems this time with pale yellow thread.

Outer ring 1: With pale pink thread, make 10 stems as in middle ring. Fasten off.

Make picots as in middle ring using bright pink thread. Fasten off.

Outer ring 2: With pale pink thread, make 12 stems as in middle ring. Fasten off.

Make picots as in middle ring using bright pink thread. Fasten off.

Assembly: With floss thread or matching color thread, sew center buds, middle ring and two outer rings together.

Lantana Leaves: (Make 3)

With green thread, ch 18.

Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 3 ch, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next 4 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in next ch, 4 sc in last ch, sc in next ch on other side of leaf, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 4 ch, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next 3 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in next 2 ch, 3 sc in tip of leaf to turn to other side.

Rnd 2: Sc in next 2 sc, hdc in next 2 hdc, dc in next 3 dc, ch 3, sk 2 ch, dc in next 4 dc, hdc in next 2 hdc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc to turn to other side of leaf, sc in next 2 sc, hdc in next 2 hdc, dc in next 4 dc, ch 3, sk 2 ch, dc in next 3 dc, hdc in next 2 hdc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in sc at tip of leaf.

Rnd 3: Working in back loops only, sc in each st all around leaf with 2 sc in st at tips of leaf to turn. Fasten off.

lantana

Assembly and finishing: Using photo as guide, put the three leaves together side by side in fan-like arrangement and sew together. Sew leaves to flower cluster. Weave in all ends.

Bougainvillea Flowers

A cluster of Bougainvillea Flowers with white hat veiling. Use as corsage or hair ornament.
A cluster of Bougainvillea Flowers with white hat veiling. Use as corsage or hair ornament.

 

This is my own crochet rendition of the beautiful flower bougainvillea. I worked very hard in making this pattern so it is very special to me. I made this when I was learning Irish Crochet. I made the white bougainvillea decorated with white hat veiling to wear as hair ornament.

A note about the bougainvillea: The actual flower of a bougainvillea plant is very small and is often white. However, each cluster of three flowers is surrounded by three (or six) bracts of bright colors including pink, lilac, red, yellow, orange and white. A bract is a modified or specialized leaf associated with a plant’s reproductive structure. Bracts are often, but not always, visually different from the actual leaves of a plant.

Each bougainvillea cluster in this pattern consists of three white bracts bearing three white flowers with green stems; and three green bracts sewn at the base of the three white bracts. Two bougainvillea clusters are made. Four green leaves are then sewn at the base of the two bougainvillea clusters.

The crocheted Bougainvillea Flowers worn as hair ornament.
The crocheted Bougainvillea Flowers worn as hair ornament.

 

Yarn: White glitter crochet cotton thread size 8 or 10
White crochet cotton thread size 8 or 10
Green crochet cotton thread size 8 or 10

Hook: 1mm

Notions: Sewing needle and thread

Instructions:

Bract and Flower: (Make 6 to make two clusters)

With white glitter thread, ch 13.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in next 3 ch, tr in next ch, 2 tr in next ch, 5 dc in next ch to turn to other side of bract, 2 tr in next ch, 1 tr in next ch, dc in next 3 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, sc in next 3 ch, 3 sc in ch at tip of bract to turn to other side of bract.

Row 2: Sc in next 3 sc, hdc in next 3 hdc, dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 2 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 dc in each of next 2 dc, dc in dc, 2 dc in each of next 2 dc, 2 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, hdc in next 3 hdc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in sc at tip of bract, ch 1.

Run sl st down the midrib of the bract.
Run sl st down the midrib of the bract.

 

Row 3: (Midrib of bract, refer to photograph above) Insert hook in first sc at tip of bract, pull thread through sc and loop on hook (sl st made); make 17 more sl sts down the middle of the bract, keeping the sl sts fairly loose so that crocheting the flower stem on it later will not be difficult. At base of bract, ch 2. Fasten off.

To make the flower/bud stem, make the sc by inserting the hook in both loops of the sl st made along the midrib of the bract.
To make the flower/bud stem, make the sc by inserting the hook in both loops of the sl st made along the midrib of the bract.

 

Flower Stem: With light green thread, attach to base of bract with sc in ch. Insert hook in both loops of the first sl st along the bract’s midrib, pull thread through, YO, pull thread through both loops on hook (sc just made); make 7 more sc in next 7 sl st along the bract’s midrib. (Refer to photograph above).
Ch 8; holding the ch taut with the thumb and middle finger of the left hand, YO, point the hook towards you and swing it under the chain, catch the thread from under the chain and pull it up – there should now be three loops over the hook (one “over” completed). Make a total of 4 overs. YO and pull thread through all 9 loops on hook, (lightly push the loops upward and pull the thread to tighten the loops into a neat ball), ch 1 to tighten the loops into a knot, sl st in ch at base of knot (Clones Knot completed).

(It can be tricky pulling the thread through all the loops on the hook. I have found that it is easier to do this if I push the overs near the shank of the hook as I make them. This will make the loops of the overs a bit bigger and more even so passing the hook and thread through them will be easier. So don’t work the overs too close to the tip of the hook. Also, when you are about to pull the thread through all the loops, relax your grip on the loops/overs, just let the tip of the hook do all the work of catching the thread and passing it through all the loops. I have found that there’s less chance of the hook getting caught in the overs if you release your grip on them.)

8 sc around the ch (be careful not to twist the ch), then sl st in sc at the point where stem and bract connect and down to end of stem, ch 1, fasten off.
Flower: With white thread, attach with sc at the base of the Clones Knot. [Ch 3, sl st in loop of sc (picot made)] 5 times to make 5 ch-3 picots around the Clones Knot. Fasten off.

Assembly: You should make 6 bracts to make 2 bougainvillea clusters (there are 3 bracts in a cluster). Sew together along the base of each bract at the back, refer to photograph below.

Sewing the bracts together at the base.
Sewing the bracts together at the base.

 

Sewing the bracts together at the base.
Sewing the bracts together at the base.

 

Green Bracts: (Make 6)

With green thread, ch 13 and follow instructions for making bracts. Do not make stem or flower, just the bracts.

Assembly: Sew three green bracts underneath each of the bougainvillea clusters, alternating with the white glitter bracts.

Leaves: (Make 4)

With light green thread, ch 13.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in next 3 ch, tr in next ch, 2 tr in next ch, 5 dc in next ch to turn to other side of leaf, 2 tr in next ch, 1 tr in next ch, dc in next 3 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, sc in next 3 ch, 3 sc in ch at tip of bract to turn to other side of leaf.

Row 2: Sc in next 3 sc, hdc in next 2 hdc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 tr, 2 tr in next 2 tr, 2 dc in each of next 5 dc, 2 tr in each of next 3 tr, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 hdc, hdc in next hdc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in sc at tip of leaf, ch 1.

Row 3: Sc in each st to ch-2 sp, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in dc, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in each of next 10 sts, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in dc, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in remaining sts to tip of leaf. Make 2 sc in st at tip of leaf, ch 1.

Row 4: Insert hook in first sc at tip of leaf, pull thread through sc and loop on hook (sl st made); make 17 or 18 more sl sts down the middle of the leaf. At base of leaf, ch 2. Fasten off.

Assembly: Assemble the 4 leaves in an alternating order then sew together. Sew the base of this leaf arrangement to the bougainvillea cluster with the green bracts. Then sew the second bougainvillea cluster at the base of the arrangement of 4 leaves.

The bougainvillea flowers made in red.
The bougainvillea flowers made in red.