The hardest part of making a dress with a motif is choosing the right motif. In this case, I selected a bebe motif without the Irish rose in the center. I also made this motif smaller by working only until round 7 of the 9 rounds of the motif. I modified the corner picot-loops at round 7 so that it can be joined to other motifs. Here below is a chart of the motif that I used/modified – the motif marked B.
The next decision to make when using motifs to make a dress is to decide how many motifs you will use to fit around the body. Of course this also means you must decide where you will start the dress – at the top, over the bust, or below, at the hem? Or perhaps at the waist or hips? Whatever you decide, you should have a strategy for shaping. My strategy is simply using different hook sizes.
There is something called “Bebe Irish Crochet” in antique patterns and these usually consist of an Irish rose center with the double picot filling all around it. As square motif or medallion is made and can be joined together to make the lace fabric.
I have collected some examples of this “bebe Irish crochet” pattern and have decided to use them to make crochet garments. I am making the motif in size 8 cotton thread and 1.24mm hook, and came up with a shrug. Why not give it a try?
Here are various examples of the motif in antique and modern publications.
Some 8 years ago I made this bag, my very first Irish crochet project. This is from a pattern published in 1917. I would like to make this bag again. I make a copy of the pattern here for you below. Let’s try making this bag. I will use crochet cotton thread size 8 in beige colour, and hook size 1.24mm. There are some minor errors in the pattern which I will try and point out in the step-by-step photos below.
MAKING THE BAG
Crochet friend Natalia has these very useful notes about putting the ball and discs together with the drawstrings:
Pass the cord through the bag beading (by the way, that ‘second beading’ they talk about confused me, I had to check the photo to make sure I hadn’t missed a round of stitches), join ends of cord, attach discs to join, pass doubled cord through ball, put join in ball. I didn’t have any cord suitable so I made some with the same thread. I only used just over one bobbin to make the bag and trimmings, I thought I’d be using more! I’m joining the cord ends with a knot, which won’t loosen because I’m sewing the discs to the knot. Then once the knot is inside the ball, I fill it with cotton and tighten the hole a little, the knot will stay inside and won’t move, which I guess is the point of it all -hide the join and have only one of the sides of the cord slide inside the ball to loosen or tighten the bag.
My crochet friend Natalia gives the following helpful suggestions in making the lining for the bag:
The lining is quite simple: make it the same size as the outer bag. Do not fall in the temptation of making it smaller. Just two squares put together, sew together three sides, finish the fourth separately. Put inside the bag and secure. Tips:
do the finishing on the mouth side first and it’ll look neater when you’re done. Since the bag is lace and it shows through, you want the public side of the lining on the outside, or better a fabric that’s reversible.
Secure the lining along the lips of the bag; it takes tension out of the fabric. Also, attaching the lining at drawstring level ensures it will close and open along with the outer bag, which is more user friendly than having it stand alone.
To make seams that look the neatest even if they’re visible, do French seams: sew pieces together face out, trim seams, turn inside out, seam again close to the first line of stitches. Turn again and place in bag.
Natalia adds: Attaching the lining was less fussy than I expected. I placed a pocket book inside to keep it in place and sewed along the opening, just below the beading. I secured the corners too for stability. And yes, I chose to keep the reverse outside, like in the original model. Why? Because of the tendency of the spikes to curve this way. I thought it’d look better.
EDITED INSTRUCTIONS FOR PRINCESS LOUISE CROCHETED BAG
Princess Louise Crocheted Bag No. 275
Ch 10, sl st in first ch to make a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 3 (count as dc), 23 dc in ring, sl st in first dc to join (24 dc made).
Rnd 2: Ch 6 (count as dc, 3-ch), sk second dc, dc in next dc, *ch 3, sk next dc, dc in next dc, rep fr * all around, ending with ch 3, sl st in first dc to join (12 3-ch sps made).
Rnd 3: Make 12 spokes as follows: *Ch 15, dc in fourth ch fr hook, dc in each remaining 11 dc, sl st in next dc of round 2; rep fr * all around. Now working behind the spokes, sl st in next 3-ch sp, **ch 15, dc in fourth ch fr hook, dc in each remaining 11 dc, sc in next 3-ch sp; rep fr ** all around (24 spokes made). Fasten off.
Rnd 4: Join thread to tip of spoke with sc, *ch 5, sc in tip of next spoke, rep fr * on all 24 spokes. End with ch 5, join with sl st to first sc.
Rnd 5: Sl st in 3-ch sp, ch 3 (count as dc), 2 dc in same sp, *ch 3, 3 dc in next sp; rep fr * three more times to make 3-dc in each of five sps; in next sp work (ch 3, 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) to form a corner; **ch 3, 3 dc in next sp; rep fr ** four more times, in next sp work (ch 3, 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) to form a corner; rep all around to make three corners ending with ch 3, 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc in the last 3-ch sp to form the last corner; ch 3, sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd 6: Sl st back into the sp just after a the corner, ch 1, sc in same sp, then *ch 7, sc in in sixth ch fr hook to make a picot, ch 8, sc in fifth ch fr hook to make second picot, ch 2, this forms one set of picots; 1 sc in next 3-ch sp and rep fr * all around, widening by putting an extra set of picots in each corner. Sl st in first sc made to join.
Rnd 7: Sl st up to sp between two picots, ch 1, sc in same sp; proceed all around as in round 6. Fasten off.
Rnd 8: Fasten thread in sp at corner picot, ch 6 (count as dc, 3-ch), 1 dc in same sp, *ch 4, work (1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc) in the center sp of next picot and rep fr * all around, not widening at the corners.
Rnd 9: Sl st to sp between dc, ch 3 (count as dc), 2 dc in same sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next sp; rep fr * all around, widening at the corners as in the fifth round. Ch, sl st in first dc to join. Fasten off. This completes one side of the bag. Make second side in the same manner.
JOINING Join the two sides of the bag by putting 1 sc through first sp of both sides, *ch 5, sc in second ch to form picot, ch 1, sc through next sp and rep fr * all around, putting an extra picot in each corner. Fasten off.
BORDER Sc in sp, *ch 4, sc in next sp, rep fr * all around. Then make a round of beading as follows: *Two treble crochet stitches in sp, ch, rep fr * all around. Fourth Round – One sc in sp, *ch 5, 1 sc in next sp and repeat fr * all around. Final Round – Same as the joining round.
DISCS Chain 4 and join in a ring. 8 sc in ring. Do not join Second Round – Two sc in each stitch taken through the double thread. Third Round – *Ch 3, 1 sc in each of the next 2 stitches and repeat from *. On four discs, ch 10. On two more discs, ch 13 and fasten off.
SLIP BALLS Chain 6 and join in a ring. 12 sc in ring. Second Round – Two sc in each stitch. Make 6 more rounds of 24 sc followed by 2 rounds skipping every third stitch. Fasten off but leave long end of thread. Slip ball on cord and after running the end of cord through the beading and fastening it firmly, fasten 3 discs on the joining, then slip ball over the joining, fill with cotton and draw up with the thread left. Run the second cord through the other beading and proceed as before, working from the other side of the bag to make the cords draw properly. Line the bag with pretty pink, blue or any other colour silk or pongee.
“Delancholancholing Stat” is a blouse made up of crocheted motifs. There are two flower motifs and one leaf motif used here. The motifs are found in Zhurnal MOD 524. The motifs are placed over a blouse as guide. Then the motifs are sewn together at the back using polyester cotton thread.
After sewing, the holes between the motifs are then covered by small round motifs. This is crocheted onto the holes. A second way of sealing the holes is by crocheting at the back, working across the motifs and over the holes.
I used multi-colour crochet cotton thread size 8 and 1.24mm and 2.0mm hook for this project. I made this project partly to use of a small stash of multi-colour thread. Photos and notes on the project are below.
I used 4-ply cotton yarn and 3mm crochet hook, this is a shorter, tighter version of “Trippletimer“, decorated with Irish crochet motifs. I started with a foundation chain (in multiples of 5 chs) that is about the length of half my underbust (you need to make the foundation chain longer if you wish to make a bolero that closes at the front). Adding 15 chains to this foundation chain, I followed the pattern instructions. The bolero is worked from the back-bottom, moving upwards, making the increase towards the front. When I have reached the desired length (from the bottom of the bolero to just below my armpits), I began to divide for the armholes.
I did not leave any loops open for the armholes and I decreased the two front sections near the neck so there is a slight curve at the neckline.
Having divided and worked upwards, the front left and right sides are joined to the back, leaving in the middle several loops as space at the back of the neck. Then the sleeves are crocheted in the round.
Before working the sleeves, you must count the number of loops on each armhole to make sure you have the same number of loops. Then you work in those loops the same trellis-picot pattern. However, you must devise a decrease in the round as you work the length of the sleeves. When you work the decrease for one sleeve, you must take note of the pattern so you can repeat exactly for the other sleeve.
For my bolero sleeve, I worked 3 rounds of 6-ch loops, then 3 rounds of 5-ch loops, then 8 rounds of decreasing 5-ch loops. Now the decrease of these loops in the round is a tricky one but I managed to find a way. What I do is simply, at the end of each alternating round, instead of a ch-5-sc in the last loop, I make a ch 2, dc in last loop, ch 2, and join to the first stitch. This results in a decrease of one loop at the last round. The next round, I work a ch 5, sc in dc, picot, ch 5, sl st in first st to join.
Another way to make the sleeve decrease is perhaps to crochet the sleeve in rows, decreasing at both sides then finish off and sew the seams together.
Get your favourite lace trim to work along the edges of the bolero. The trim I used is this one, below.
The Irish crochet motifs are all made using the same 4-ply cotton yarn with four strands of yarn as padding cord. The photographs below show how the leaf is made in Irish crochet. The leaf pattern (in symbol chart) may be found in Zhurnal MOD No. 533.
MAKING THE IRISH CROCHET LEAVES
Prepare the padding cord of 4 or more strands of the same yarn as the working yarn.
Join the working yarn to the padding cord with a sl st and a sc.
Make a sc around the padding cord.
Continue making more sc around the padding cord. The Zhurnal MOD leaf pattern calls for 22-24 sc, then turn.
Here the piece has been turned, showing the back side of the sc stitches around the padding cord. We now need to work the second row of stitches of the leaf, this time, dropping or leaving the padding cord behind.
As indicated in the Zhurnal MOD pattern, make 2 sl st, 2 sc, 6 dc, 2 sc and 4 sl st all in the back loops of each sc of the previous row.
Here is the finished row. Back loop stitches make a nice ridge on the leaf. Now you must turn the leaf for the next row.
Work back loop sc in each st as shown here, moving towards the tip of the leaf. When you reach the tip, turn.
Here the piece has been turned and the padding cord is picked up again. The next row of back loop sc is worked along the leaf, covering the padding cord along the edge of the leaf.
The finished leaf is shown here. You must turn the piece and begin the next row and the next leaf.
Here the first row of the next leaf is being made, with the padding cord and back loop sc stitches.
But you don’t work all the edge of the first leaf. You continue by orking sc around the padding cord only, and not joined to the edge of the first leaf, as shown here. The pattern call for about 15 sc on the padding cord alone. Then turn.
Here, the open loop design of the leaf is begun, dropping the padding cord. Make a sc in the first st, then ch 4, sk 3 sts, sc in next st. make at least 3 of these then end with ch 2, sk 3 sts, dc in next st. Then turn.
The next row of the open loop design is made. Make 4-ch and sc in next loop, and so on, ending with ch 4, sc in first sc at the tip of the leaf. Then turn.
Now you will pick up the padding cord again, working around it with 4 sc in each loop of the leaf. The Zhurnal MOD pattern calls for 2 sc, dc, 1 sc to make a slightly uneven edging.
Here is the finished two leaves, one is solid and the other has open design.
To shape the leaf, you need to occasionally pull the padding cord. To flatten the piece, you can put the piece on a flat surface, then press with one hand while gently but firmly pulling the padding cord with the other.
Here is the leaf after pulling the padding cord.
And here is another solid leaf made afterwards. It is up to you to improvise on the original pattern, making 2 or 3 or 4 or 5 leaves on each motif, varying in sizes.
Wash and block the bolero before sewing on the motifs. Apart from the leaves, I made some Irish crochet flowers.
The Irish crochet motifs are arranged on the bolero and then sewn at the back. You can pin the motifs first and then turn the bolero inside out, then sew.
Here is a dress I made without use of a crochet pattern. I found this construction method very useful because I do not have a tailor’s dummy or dress form. The method I used for Maja and Corinthia is to begin with motifs. In Corinthia the motifs lie over the waist. In Maja the motifs lie over the bust. The motifs begin the shape of the dress.
Once these motifs are made to the measurement you need, then it is easy to work upward (for the bodice, neckline and armholes) and downward (for the skirt) to construct the full dress. The three motifs make up the front of the dress bodice. There is no complicated shaping used in this dress. Crocheting the trim all around the neckline and all around the armholes is sufficient to make the shape. The trick is to use a basic stitch pattern that is flexible, for example, the trellis stitch, the trellis with picot stitch or the simple mesh.
Maja is made up of two sections – Front and Back – and Front starts with three motifs. The three motifs in Maja lie directly over the bust and its width includes the armholes. The upper chest/neckline is added next, working upwards with left and right shoulders worked separately. After the front and back bodice are joined together, the skirt section is worked downwards, in the round.. The back is worked similarly without the motifs. There is no shaping other than the use of smaller hook at the waist.
Maja is then decorated with Irish crochet motifs.
Maja is worked in Maharaja dyed silk from Silk Indian and 2.5mm hook.
Here, below, is the silk yarn. I wind the yarn into balls using a home-made yarn-winder.
Here are photos showing the basic dress in progress – starting with the 3 motifs that go at the front bodice of the dress. From there the top and lower section of the dress are crocheted.
Here are photos showing the Irish crochet motifs. I used worsted weight yarn of pink colour to match the silk as padding cord.
And here are the motifs being sewn onto the dress. And the finished dress below.
This is what I do when I make a dress without a pattern. I hope that this inspires you to do the same. And more.
Corinthia is an exercise in making a crocheted dress without the use of patterns and with only very minimal shaping. A basic dress is finished first then it is embellished with Irish crochet motifs.
Corinthia is worked in the round. Work starts at the waist: a strip of motifs joined together. Then the upper section is made up to the armpits, crocheting in rows with decrease at the front to shape the overlapping V-neckline. The V-neckline then commences separately towards the left and right Front shoulder. The low back and shoulder for the Back is added on separately. The skirt section is worked down from the waist, in rounds. There is no shaping as the motifs already narrow at the waist, gathers a bit then flares very slightly as work is done downwards.
The upper part of the dress is worked in a trellis with picots stitch pattern. This is easy to shape. The lower part of the dress is worked in alternating rounds of sc, dc-ch-dc, dc, etc. – just to create an interesting mesh design.
MAKING THE BASIC DRESS
After the basic dress is finished, Irish crochet motifs are made and sewn onto the dress.
MAKING THE IRISH CROCHET MOTIFS
The hook I used for this project is 2.25mm and the yarn is 3-ply silk-acrylic and thicker 8-ply cotton yarn for the padding cord.
Crochet dresses tend to stretch due to gravity. They stretch more with every washing and most specially when hang to dry. Stretch is prevented by drying flat and flat storage.
However, I tend to prefer hang dry because this allows the crochet fabric to dry faster. During the cooler and wet seasons, crochet fabric take longer to dry and have that unpleasant smell if they do not dry properly.
If you use a blocked gauge swatch, you can crochet the garment to a size approximating that of the washed finished garment taking into account stretch through washing and gravity. However, a blocked gauge can’t really account for gravity during wear.
So what I do is trial and error especially when using a yarn I am not familiar with. When I finish a basic garment (without the motifs), I try to make them shorter than the desired finished length. If the garment stretches after washing (and hanging to dry), I adjust the shoulder length. This is why I often leave tail ends undone until I am perfectly certain that the garment will no longer stretch.
Sewing a lining to the dress is another solution. The lining, especially when sewn at the seams, will keep the crochet fabric from stretching. I have not tried this before, though, so I have no experience to speak of of this solution.
Finishing stitches are also a solution. The finishing done along the neckline, armholes, and shoulders as well as the waist in some cases, provide the “back bone” for the dress. A good strong finishing/trim of solid tight stitches will have the least tendency to stretch.
Or – of course – you can use yarn that has the least tendency to stretch and change its shape due to gravity, washing or other. Cotton is one example I can think of. It has only a mild tendency to stretch.
One solution I have tried is to crochet the yarn together with polyester thread of matching colour, as polyester thread will not stretch.
Make the Lantana Flower as corsage or attach to a crocheted strap to make a necklace or hair ornament.
You will need: Crochet cotton thread size 8 or 10: bright pink, green, yellow, yellow-orange, pale pink, pale yellow.
Hook: Steel crochet hook size 1mm
Gauge: Gauge is not very important in this project
Terminology: Pattern is written using US crochet terminology
Center buds: With yellow-orange thread, *ch 7. Holding the ch taut with the thumb and middle finger of the left hand, thread over hook, point the hook towards you and swing it under the chain, catch the thread from under the chain and pull it up – there should now be three loops over the hook (one “over” completed). Make a total of 5 overs. YO and pull thread through all 11 loops on hook, ch 1 to tighten the loops into a knot, sl st in ch at base of knot (Clones Knot completed). Sl St down the ch. Rep from * to make 10 buds. Sl st in ch of first bud stem to make a ring, fasten off.
It can be tricky pulling the thread through all the loops on the hook. I have found that it is easier to do this if I push the overs near the shank of the hook as I make them. This will make the loops of the overs a bit bigger and more even so passing the hook and thread through them will be easier. So don’t work the overs too close to the tip of the hook. Also, when you are about to pull the thread through all the loops, relax your grip on the loops/overs, just let the tip of the hook do all the work of catching the thread and passing it through all the loops. I have found that there’s less chance of the hook getting caught in the overs if you release your grip on them.
Middle ring: With pale yellow thread, *ch 7. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch (first stem made); rep from * to make 10 stems. Sl st in ch of first stem to make a ring, fasten off.
With yellow thread, attach with sc to tip of first stem. *[Ch 3, sl st in sc (picot made)] 5 times, ch 3, sc in tip of second stem, rep from * on 4 stems. Fasten off and continue putting picots on the remaining 6 stems this time with pale yellow thread.
Outer ring 1: With pale pink thread, make 10 stems as in middle ring. Fasten off.
Make picots as in middle ring using bright pink thread. Fasten off.
Outer ring 2: With pale pink thread, make 12 stems as in middle ring. Fasten off.
Make picots as in middle ring using bright pink thread. Fasten off.
Assembly: With floss thread or matching color thread, sew center buds, middle ring and two outer rings together.
Lantana Leaves: (Make 3)
With green thread, ch 18.
Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 3 ch, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next 4 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in next ch, 4 sc in last ch, sc in next ch on other side of leaf, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 4 ch, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next 3 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in next 2 ch, 3 sc in tip of leaf to turn to other side.
Rnd 2: Sc in next 2 sc, hdc in next 2 hdc, dc in next 3 dc, ch 3, sk 2 ch, dc in next 4 dc, hdc in next 2 hdc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc to turn to other side of leaf, sc in next 2 sc, hdc in next 2 hdc, dc in next 4 dc, ch 3, sk 2 ch, dc in next 3 dc, hdc in next 2 hdc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in sc at tip of leaf.
Rnd 3: Working in back loops only, sc in each st all around leaf with 2 sc in st at tips of leaf to turn. Fasten off.
Assembly and finishing: Using photo as guide, put the three leaves together side by side in fan-like arrangement and sew together. Sew leaves to flower cluster. Weave in all ends.
This is my own crochet rendition of the beautiful flower bougainvillea. I worked very hard in making this pattern so it is very special to me. I made this when I was learning Irish Crochet. I made the white bougainvillea decorated with white hat veiling to wear as hair ornament.
A note about the bougainvillea: The actual flower of a bougainvillea plant is very small and is often white. However, each cluster of three flowers is surrounded by three (or six) bracts of bright colors including pink, lilac, red, yellow, orange and white. A bract is a modified or specialized leaf associated with a plant’s reproductive structure. Bracts are often, but not always, visually different from the actual leaves of a plant.
Each bougainvillea cluster in this pattern consists of three white bracts bearing three white flowers with green stems; and three green bracts sewn at the base of the three white bracts. Two bougainvillea clusters are made. Four green leaves are then sewn at the base of the two bougainvillea clusters.
Yarn: White glitter crochet cotton thread size 8 or 10
White crochet cotton thread size 8 or 10
Green crochet cotton thread size 8 or 10
Notions: Sewing needle and thread
Bract and Flower: (Make 6 to make two clusters)
With white glitter thread, ch 13.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in next 3 ch, tr in next ch, 2 tr in next ch, 5 dc in next ch to turn to other side of bract, 2 tr in next ch, 1 tr in next ch, dc in next 3 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, sc in next 3 ch, 3 sc in ch at tip of bract to turn to other side of bract.
Row 2: Sc in next 3 sc, hdc in next 3 hdc, dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 2 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 dc in each of next 2 dc, dc in dc, 2 dc in each of next 2 dc, 2 tr in each of next 3 tr, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, hdc in next 3 hdc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in sc at tip of bract, ch 1.
Row 3: (Midrib of bract, refer to photograph above) Insert hook in first sc at tip of bract, pull thread through sc and loop on hook (sl st made); make 17 more sl sts down the middle of the bract, keeping the sl sts fairly loose so that crocheting the flower stem on it later will not be difficult. At base of bract, ch 2. Fasten off.
Flower Stem: With light green thread, attach to base of bract with sc in ch. Insert hook in both loops of the first sl st along the bract’s midrib, pull thread through, YO, pull thread through both loops on hook (sc just made); make 7 more sc in next 7 sl st along the bract’s midrib. (Refer to photograph above).
Ch 8; holding the ch taut with the thumb and middle finger of the left hand, YO, point the hook towards you and swing it under the chain, catch the thread from under the chain and pull it up – there should now be three loops over the hook (one “over” completed). Make a total of 4 overs. YO and pull thread through all 9 loops on hook, (lightly push the loops upward and pull the thread to tighten the loops into a neat ball), ch 1 to tighten the loops into a knot, sl st in ch at base of knot (Clones Knot completed).
(It can be tricky pulling the thread through all the loops on the hook. I have found that it is easier to do this if I push the overs near the shank of the hook as I make them. This will make the loops of the overs a bit bigger and more even so passing the hook and thread through them will be easier. So don’t work the overs too close to the tip of the hook. Also, when you are about to pull the thread through all the loops, relax your grip on the loops/overs, just let the tip of the hook do all the work of catching the thread and passing it through all the loops. I have found that there’s less chance of the hook getting caught in the overs if you release your grip on them.)
8 sc around the ch (be careful not to twist the ch), then sl st in sc at the point where stem and bract connect and down to end of stem, ch 1, fasten off.
Flower: With white thread, attach with sc at the base of the Clones Knot. [Ch 3, sl st in loop of sc (picot made)] 5 times to make 5 ch-3 picots around the Clones Knot. Fasten off.
Assembly: You should make 6 bracts to make 2 bougainvillea clusters (there are 3 bracts in a cluster). Sew together along the base of each bract at the back, refer to photograph below.
Green Bracts: (Make 6)
With green thread, ch 13 and follow instructions for making bracts. Do not make stem or flower, just the bracts.
Assembly: Sew three green bracts underneath each of the bougainvillea clusters, alternating with the white glitter bracts.
Leaves: (Make 4)
With light green thread, ch 13.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in next 3 ch, tr in next ch, 2 tr in next ch, 5 dc in next ch to turn to other side of leaf, 2 tr in next ch, 1 tr in next ch, dc in next 3 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, sc in next 3 ch, 3 sc in ch at tip of bract to turn to other side of leaf.
Row 2: Sc in next 3 sc, hdc in next 2 hdc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 tr, 2 tr in next 2 tr, 2 dc in each of next 5 dc, 2 tr in each of next 3 tr, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 hdc, hdc in next hdc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in sc at tip of leaf, ch 1.
Row 3: Sc in each st to ch-2 sp, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in dc, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in each of next 10 sts, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in dc, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in remaining sts to tip of leaf. Make 2 sc in st at tip of leaf, ch 1.
Row 4: Insert hook in first sc at tip of leaf, pull thread through sc and loop on hook (sl st made); make 17 or 18 more sl sts down the middle of the leaf. At base of leaf, ch 2. Fasten off.
Assembly: Assemble the 4 leaves in an alternating order then sew together. Sew the base of this leaf arrangement to the bougainvillea cluster with the green bracts. Then sew the second bougainvillea cluster at the base of the arrangement of 4 leaves.