Lavender Bolero with Flower Motifs

Posted on January 22, 2012 by fats

With Dora Ohrenstein’s “Glitter Girl Bolero” (in “100 Crochet Projects”) as basic shell, I completed this flower trimmed bolero in cotton thread size 8. This is in size Medium for my mom.

The finished bolero as to be worn with a dress underneath.

Project Notes:
See New Paths with new crochet materials
Jan 5: I am working on a size M now using cotton 8 thread. I increased by adding the next multiple. For example, the pattern starts with ch 92 (110, 128) which are sizes S, M, L in increments of 18. So for cotton 8 thread that’s 128 for small, 146 for medium and 164 for large.

At row 3 the patterns says V-st in next V-st 14 (17, 20) times. Those are repetitions in multiples of 3, so for cotton 8 thread that should be 23, 26, 29.

In the original pattern, there are two additional rows for sizes M and L (starting at Row 10). I am tempted to add rows in multiples of 2 for cotton 8 thread but I’m not sure if that’s correct. That would probably need working out by actual measuring rather than adding rows. But I’ll need to double-check when I get there!

Finished the motifs and trimmings around the sleeves then ran out of thread to finish off the bottom hem.

Jan 7: Continuing my work on the bolero in size Medium and lavender colour.

So far I am at the back section of the bolero and I have been taking measurements as I work. I base my measurements on schematics in some knitting magazines that I got a few years ago. I don’t knit and these back-issue magazines were cheap, and they have proven their usefulness in terms of a chance to study garment sizing through the schematics.

I also found out that “The Glitter Girl Bolero” pattern has a rather tight armhole. When I worked in size Small I added two extra rows at the shoulders. This time, working in size Medium, I added one extra row at the lower section of the garment and then two extra rows at the shoulder to increase the armhole size. At the moment, I am confident that this will be the right fit for my mom.

The shops didn't carry any of the lavander thread anymore so I used variegated ochre-white thread for the bottom edging which matches the color of the ribbon and some of the flowers.

The shops didn't carry any of the lavender thread any more so I used variegated ochre-white thread for the bottom edging which matches the colour of the ribbon and some of the flowers.

I have done this bolero earlier in size Small, as shown in Crocheting in 2012 and http://crochetology.net/2012/01/first-fo-in-2012/

Detail of the ribbon and motifs.

New things learned while working on the lavender bolero:

Some of the flowers at the back of the neck tended to fold over. One way to stiffen them was to sew nylon thread through the edges of the motifs. I learned this method while washing a chiffon dress (beach dress) which used nylon thread along the hem to give it weight and keep the dress from being blown up by the wind.

Perhaps next time, I can make a bolero made entirely of flower motifs.

The use of tailor’s patterns for crochet is not such a bad idea. It provides a basis for shaping into what they call “tailored” or “tailor fit” which can be rather nice with certain garments. I would like to try this some time with skirts since crocheted skirts tend to hug the body in unflattering ways.

Running out of thread meant implementing a new design feature. This happened to the bolero in a small and simple way. The shops didn’t carry any of the lavender thread any more so I used variegated ochre-white thread for the bottom edging which matches the colour of the ribbon and some of the flowers.

Some of the pleasures of Crocheting with acrylic yarn

Posted on December 16, 2011 by fats

The coin purses are now labelled and ready to go. I made enough for family in Manila and here’s a photo of some of the purses. Two are already on their way to Amsterdam for my husband’s grandchildren.

The funny farm is ready!

All these purses are worked in acrylic yarn of worsted weight although some feel like they are fingering weight yarn. In these cases I usually work with two hook sizes, aluminum 3/0 (2.2mm) and 4/0 (2.5mm). For closure, I just use velcro.

A velcro for enclosure.

The only problem with velcro and yarn is that the velcro can felt the yarn through use. To minimize this problem, a fabric backing can be sewn around the area where the velcro will be sewn on or – as in my case – one can just try to use a small amount of velcro that fit each other and to apply the hooked portion of the velcro in that part of the crocheted item where there is less tendency to stick to other bare part of the crochet. For the purse, the hooked part of the velcro is sewn onto the body of the purse.

Apart from these coin purses, I plan to send other stuff to family in Manila. I have been trying to design some hairbands the past several weeks now and last night I thought about using acrylic yarn instead of thread.

Duplet crochet fashion magazine in Russian language.

This issue 76 of Duplet magazine has Irish crochet patterns and the leaves caught my attention. All worked in thread and by crocheting over padding yarn, I didn’t follow the patterns exactly but rather just took the general idea of how the leaves were made.

I stuck with the basic leaf and made them in two sizes – the larger one starts with 14+1 chains and the smaller one starts with 8+1 chains. The corrugated surface of the leaf comes from back-loop single crochet.

A page from Duplet Issue 76 showing Irish crochet patterns in symbol and Russian language.

I arranged the leaves into the desired layout and then sewed them together at the back. It is this process of arranging and sewing that is the most difficult. The leaves need to be arranged in such a way that they will keep their shape when worn – that is, when they get stretched. The leaves also need to be sewn in such a way that they get reinforced.

The garter for the hairband is this black 1 inch wide garter. I got this garter especially for the purpose of making hairbands.

I used a 1 inch wide garter for the hairband.

Trying on the hairband it seems to work well. The typical problem with crocheted hairbands is that they fold near the back of the head under the hair or near the ears. They also tend to stretch and loose their shape and elasticity. Garters can also look unsightly.

The leaves and garter work well for hairband.

Anyway, I really like how the acrylic yarn leaves turned out. I tried them on as a scarf and it feels soft and warm around the neck, perhaps better if worked in wool or mohair. The crocheted leaves also have a shape that is quite easy to work with when joining together, and they have a very attractive texture.

I guess acrylic yarn is also a good way to experiment with new stitches, motifs and techniques. They are easy to work with, don’t demand too much detail like thread, and they’re inexpensive. They also seem to be a good substitute for thread in certain Irish crochet patterns that exploit bulk and padding rather than fine detail.

I’m not yet ready to turn back to thread at the moment so I think I will spend a bit more time working in yarn and wool.

Forest Candy

Posted on April 23, 2011 by fats

Forest Candy is a truly colorful necklace made with green crochet cotton thread and multi-color thread. Choose you favorite multi-color thread – in sunny colors such as this, or in blues, browns or reds to change the mood of the piece.

When making crocheted jewelry such as this, you may wish to starch the pieces so that the edges don’t fold over while wearing. There’s a very good page about stiffening/starching crochet at the Crochet Memories website. You can starch mildly and wash off when you launder the necklace. Apart from stiffening, starch protects the fabric and so dirt goes to the starch and not on the fabric.

If you like these patterns and make a finished object, please let me know. I would love to see finished work or modifications of the patterns I make. If you have any questions or comments or if you find any errors in the patterns, please let me know as well, so that I can correct and update the patterns.

Forest Candy by Fatima Lasay

Skill Level: Intermediate

Finished Measurements: Approximately 11” long without ties; 26” long with ties

Yarn: Multi-color crochet cotton thread size 8

Green crochet cotton thread size 8

Hook: Steel crochet hook size Japan 3 or US 10 Steel (1.3mm)

Aluminum crochet hook size Japan 4/0 or US 0 Steel (2.5mm)

Gauge: Exact gauge is not crucial for this pattern.

Notions: Needle and matching-color thread

Terminology: Pattern is written using US crochet terminology (see chart on last page for conversion).

Instructions:

Special Stitches:

Back Loop Single Crochet (BLsc): Work sc as normal except that you insert the hook not in both loops of the st, but the loop that is further away as you look at the work. The result is a softer, stretchier fabric that looks very different from stitches worked in front loops only or in both loops.

Picot: Ch 3, sl st in base of ch-3.

Motifs:

5-Petal Flower: (Make 2)

With multi-color thread, ch 4, sl st in 1st ch to form ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, 10 sc in ring, sl st in 1st sc to join.

Rnd 2: *Ch 2, 3 dc in next sc, ch 2, sl st in next sc, rep fr * 4 times, sl st in 1st sc to join. Fasten off.

6-Petal Flower: (Make 3)

With multi-color thread, ch 5, sl st in first ch to form ring.

Rnd 1: (Ch 3, [yo, insert hook in ring and draw up loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] 2 times, yo and draw through all loops on hook, ch 3, sl st in ring) 6 times. Fasten off.

7-Petal Flower: (Make 3)

With multi-color thread, ch 5, sl st in 1st ch to form ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, 14 sc in ring, sl st in 1st sc to join.

Rnd 2: *Ch 2, 3 dc in next sc, ch 2, sl st in next sc, rep fr * 6 times. Sl st in 1st sc to join. Fasten off.

12-Petal Flower: (Make 3)

With multi-color thread, ch 6, sl st in 1st ch to form ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, 12 sc in ring, sl st in 1st sc to join.

Rnd 2: (Ch 5, sc in 3rd ch fr hook, hdc in next ch, sl st in next ch, sl st in next sc of previous rnd) 12 times. Fasten off.

Leaf: (Make 5)

Crochet symbol chart for the leaf.

With green thread, ch 10.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in 2nd ch fr hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, tr in next ch, dc in next 3 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch; ch 1, 2 BLsc in last ch (this turns you now to other side of foundation chain), BLsc in next ch, *picot, BLsc in next 2 sts, rep fr * all around leaf ending with sl st in 1st sc to join. Fasten off.

Rings (Make 2):

With multi-color thread, ch 4, sl st in 1st ch to form ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, 10 sc in ring. Fasten off.

Experiment with other colors of thread and other arrangements of the motifs.

Assembly/Finishing:

Using the photograph below as guide, arrange the motifs and pin together. Turn over and sew at the back with matching color thread.

You may use this photo as guide or you can create your own motif arrangement. Add more motifs as needed.

To make the ties: With two strands of green thread held together, join to ring with two sc, ch 54, 3 tr in 4th ch fr hook. Fasten off. Rep for other ring.

Weave in tail ends and block flat.

To wear the necklace, simply tie at the back.

Mountain Gold

Posted on April 22, 2011 by fats

Mountain Gold is a necklace made by sewing crocheted motifs together. If you enjoy making motifs and sewing them, then you might like this pattern. Please let me know if you have an problems with the pattern or if you spot any errors so that I can correct and update the pattern.

Mountain Gold Necklace.

Skill Level: Intermediate
Finished Measurements: Motifs measure approximately 8” long without ties; 23” long with ties
Yarn: Brown crochet cotton thread size 8
Gold metallic embroidery thread
Hook: Steel crochet hook size Japan 3 or US 10 Steel (1.3mm)
Aluminum crochet hook size Japan 4/0 or US 0 Steel (2.5mm)
Gauge: Exact gauge is not crucial for this pattern
Notions: Needle and matching-color thread

Instructions:
Special Stitches:
Back Loop Single Crochet (BLsc): Work sc as normal except that you insert the hook not in both loops of the st, but the loop that is further away as you look at the work. The result is a softer, stretchier fabric that looks very different from stitches worked in front loops only or in both loops.
Picot: Ch 3, sl st in base of ch-3.

Closer view of the motifs.

Motifs:
For all motifs, use one strand of brown cotton thread and one strand of gold embroidery thread held together.
5-Petal Flower – Large
Ch 5. Sl st in 1st ch to form ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, *sc in ring, ch 3, rep fr * 5 times ending last rep with sl st in 1st sc to join.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in 1st sc, *ch 3, 3 tr in next ch-3 lp, ch 2, sl st in next sc, rep fr * 5 times. Fasten off.

5-Petal Flower – Small (Make 2)
Ch 5. Sl st in 1st ch to form ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, *sc in ring, ch 3, rep fr * 5 times ending last rep with sl st in 1st sc to join.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in 1st sc, *ch 2, 3 dc in next ch-3 lp, ch 2, sl st in next sc, rep fr * 5 times. Fasten off.

Large Leaf:
Ch 10.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in 2nd ch fr hook and in each ch across, 2 more sc in last ch to turn to other side of of foundation ch, sc in next ch, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 3 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in last ch, sl st in 1st sc to join.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 BLsc in same sc, BLsc in next st, *picot, BLsc in next 2 sts, rep fr * all around leaf, ending with sl st in 1st sc. Fasten off.

Small Leaf (Make 3):

Crochet symbol chart for the leaf.

Ch 10.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in 2nd ch fr hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, tr in next ch, dc in next 3 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch; ch 1, 2 BLsc in last ch (this turns you now to other side of foundation chain), BLsc in next ch, *picot, BLsc in next 2 sts, rep fr * all around leaf ending with sl st in 1st sc to join. Fasten off.

3-Petal Flower:
Ch 4, sl st in 1st ch to form ring.
Rnd 1: *Ch 2, 2 dc in ring, ch 2, sl st in ring, rep fr * 2 times. Fasten off.

Rings (Make 2):
Ch 4, sl st in 1st ch to form ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 10 sc in ring. Fasten off.

Assembly/Finishing:

Follow this guide for arranging the motifs.

Using the photograph above as guide, arrange the motifs and pin together. Turn over and sew at the back with matching color thread.

To make the ties: With two strands of brown cotton thread held together and larger hook, join to ring with two sc, ch 54, 3 tr in 4th ch fr hook. Fasten off. Rep for other ring.

Weave in tail ends and block flat.

To wear the necklace, simply tie at the back.

Stiffening/Starching Crochet
You might wish to stiffen or starch the necklace if it folds in places during wearing. An excellent guide to starching/stiffening crochet may be found in this website.