The Hairpin Lace Collar is on my hook right now, this time, burgundy cotton 8 with a steel 1.3mm hook. The staple is 4″ as I have used with the acrylic fingering. Finer thread would mean working with more loops. I also decided to use [sc. dc] on each loop, giving the middle of the lace strip a larger, sturdier structure, and a more decorative appearance.

If you wish to learn hairpin lace, I include below some instructions as written in “Priscilla Yoke Book, Crochet and Tatting” (thanks to the Antique Pattern Library).

Instructions for Hairpin Lace/Maltese Crochet:

From “Priscilla Yoke Book, Crochet and Tatting” published by the Priscilla Publishing Co., 1916. (See illustration above)

1. Tie the thread around the staple;
2. Put the hook under the lower thread and draw a loop of thread under and up;
3. Thread over hook and draw through.
4. Turn the staple from right to left, carrying the hook up over the rounded end to the back side.
5. Working from back side, insert hook under loop on left prong, draw thread through, thread over, and
6. Draw through both stitches on hook.
7. Turn staple from right to left, bringing hook to upper side of work, insert hook under forward loop as before, draw thread through, thread over hook and draw through both stitches.

Hairpin crochet instructions are also found in the chapter on Crochet Work from “Encyclopedia of Needlework by Thérèse de Dillmont.”

The Hairpin Crochet Group on Ravelry has a collection of links to online resources on hairpin lace.

Some instructional videos on Hairpin Lace Crochet that I recommend:

Horquilla: técnica básica
Horquilla: variaciones al tejer las tiras (Parte 1)
Horquilla: variaciones al tejer las tiras (Parte 2)
Horquilla: técnica básica para la unión de las tiras

Free Pattern for Beginners:

Woman’s Hairpin Lace Shawl (with instructions on basic hairpin lace)