Some of the pleasures of Crocheting with acrylic yarn

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The coin purses are now labelled and ready to go. I made enough for family in Manila and here’s a photo of some of the purses. Two are already on their way to Amsterdam for my husband’s grandchildren.

The funny farm is ready!

The funny farm is ready!

All these purses are worked in acrylic yarn of worsted weight although some feel like they are fingering weight yarn. In these cases I usually work with two hook sizes, aluminum 3/0 (2.2mm) and 4/0 (2.5mm). For closure, I just use velcro.

A velcro for enclosure.

A velcro for enclosure.

The only problem with velcro and yarn is that the velcro can felt the yarn through use. To minimize this problem, a fabric backing can be sewn around the area where the velcro will be sewn on or – as in my case – one can just try to use a small amount of velcro that fit each other and to apply the hooked portion of the velcro in that part of the crocheted item where there is less tendency to stick to other bare part of the crochet. For the purse, the hooked part of the velcro is sewn onto the body of the purse.

Apart from these coin purses, I plan to send other stuff to family in Manila. I have been trying to design some hairbands the past several weeks now and last night I thought about using acrylic yarn instead of thread.

Duplet crochet fashion magazine in Russian language.

Duplet crochet fashion magazine in Russian language.

This issue 76 of Duplet magazine has Irish crochet patterns and the leaves caught my attention. All worked in thread and by crocheting over padding yarn, I didn’t follow the patterns exactly but rather just took the general idea of how the leaves were made.

I stuck with the basic leaf and made them in two sizes – the larger one starts with 14+1 chains and the smaller one starts with 8+1 chains. The corrugated surface of the leaf comes from back-loop single crochet.

A page from Duplet Issue 76 showing Irish crochet patterns in symbol and Russian language.

A page from Duplet Issue 76 showing Irish crochet patterns in symbol and Russian language.

I arranged the leaves into the desired layout and then sewed them together at the back. It is this process of arranging and sewing that is the most difficult. The leaves need to be arranged in such a way that they will keep their shape when worn – that is, when they get stretched. The leaves also need to be sewn in such a way that they get reinforced.

The garter for the hairband is this black 1 inch wide garter. I got this garter especially for the purpose of making hairbands.

I used a 1 inch wide garter for the hairband.

I used a 1 inch wide garter for the hairband.

Trying on the hairband it seems to work well. The typical problem with crocheted hairbands is that they fold near the back of the head under the hair or near the ears. They also tend to stretch and loose their shape and elasticity. Garters can also look unsightly.

The leaves and garter work well for hairband.

The leaves and garter work well for hairband.

Anyway, I really like how the acrylic yarn leaves turned out. I tried them on as a scarf and it feels soft and warm around the neck, perhaps better if worked in wool or mohair. The crocheted leaves also have a shape that is quite easy to work with when joining together, and they have a very attractive texture.

I guess acrylic yarn is also a good way to experiment with new stitches, motifs and techniques. They are easy to work with, don’t demand too much detail like thread, and they’re inexpensive. They also seem to be a good substitute for thread in certain Irish crochet patterns that exploit bulk and padding rather than fine detail.

I’m not yet ready to turn back to thread at the moment so I think I will spend a bit more time working in yarn and wool.

Comfort Crochet

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I completed another mesh and motif purse a few days ago. I used a strip of brugge lace for the rim of the purse, then a mesh for the purse body. I followed one of the mesh patterns on Duplet 127.

Plenty of mesh patterns to choose from and to improv in Duplet.

Plenty of mesh patterns to choose from and to improv in Duplet.

This time, I sewed the brugge lace to the zipper first, then made the mesh all around. Here is the purse with the completed mesh body.

The mesh body of the purse.

The mesh body of the purse.

I made several flower motifs all of them from Duplet 112 (pages 10-11), and sewed them onto the mesh. I tried adding acrylic pearl beads (with a very light golden tinge) to the purse, and here is the finished item.

The motifs-on-mesh purse decorated with pearl beads.

The motifs-on-mesh purse decorated with pearl beads.

After that, I made several more motifs and joined them together by crocheting with a thinner thread. Below it is possible to see the difference between the thread sizes as well as the color: the motifs are in natural cotton thread size 8 and the joining mesh is in white crochet cotton thread size 10.

I was able to finish this purse but I'm not happy with how it turned out.

I was able to finish this purse but I'm not happy with how it turned out.

This purse took much effort to finish and I don’t feel very happy about it. I feel that I am employing a particular technique not suited for the purpose. That is – I seem to be using a wholly free-form method to make a fixed and pre-determined shape.

For some reason I have always detested the use of the basting board for joining motifs with the free-form mesh. Here certainly, the basting board would make certain that I have that degree of control over determining where motifs should go and in which shape the piece should take.

Until I learn to feel better about working with a basting board or a similar set-up, I should take into account the advantages and disadvantages of the various crochet techniques I have been exploring.

To get over the frustration, I started working on some coin purses last night, having in mind my sister and my nephews. I finished two purses last night – one with Edward’s face on it and the other with Kitty 2. The faces close the purse with a velcro.

My comfrot crochet in yarn.

My comfort crochet in yarn.

I am making more to give away for Christmas. Whenever I feel frustrated in crocheting with thread, I always find comfort when I turn to acrylic yarn and make fun things like this. So I feel better now.

Motifs on a mesh

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Two weeks ago, I started working on a purse and left it in this state (photo below).

Start with a zipper and a lace edging.

Start with a zipper and a lace edging.

My intention was to sew the two lace edgings onto the zipper and then build up the body of the purse by joining flower motifs of various sizes either by crocheting or by sewing.

When I returned home from Manila four days ago, I took some time browsing the two other Duplet Magazines that I ordered and had shipped in Manila several months earlier.

Duplet Crochet Magazine Issue #127

Duplet Crochet Magazine Issue #127

From one of the magazines, I found several wonderful mesh patterns and decided to use one. On page 47 of the magazine is some photos and charts for bruge lace. I am experimenting with bruge lace now but for the purse, I decided to use one of the mesh patterns used with bruge lace.

Page 47 of Duplet Crochet Magazine Issue #127

Page 47 of Duplet Crochet Magazine Issue #127

And here is my finished purse!

The finished purse.

The finished purse.

I am very happy with the result of this experiment. Although I intended to crochet the motifs together, the shift to sewing the motifs onto a mesh worked very well.

The finished purse.

The finished purse.

The hardest part in completing this purse had to do with design decisions – the arrangement of the motifs on both sides of the purse.

The zipper is sewn by hand.

The zipper is sewn by hand.

Technically, I also had difficulty sewing on the zipper. I don’t have a sewing machine (which will definitely make life easier) and so I do all of the sewing by hand. I have been thinking of getting a sewing machine but perhaps later when there is much greater need for such.

The purse holds a small notebook and a mobile phone.

Here I use the purse to hold a small notebook and a mobile phone.

The purse is not lined. I couldn’t find the suitable lining for it. Nevertheless, the purse is to be used for keeping larger objects and not for tiny things that can fall through the lacy holes.

Here is one side of the purse.

One side of the purse showing the motifs.

One side of the purse showing the motifs.

The other side has a different arrangement of motifs.

The other side of the purse showing an arrangement of flowers with leaves.

The other side of the purse showing an arrangement of flowers with leaves.

I enjoyed sewing the motifs onto the mesh. It can be a bit hard and the mesh needs to be blocked into shape before sewing.

Also, how the motifs are sewn determine the appearance and texture of the fabric. If sewn too flat, the fabric can look dull and uninteresting.

I was tempted to cover the entire purse with motifs since that would also cover the holes of the mesh, but I decided not to do this for now. I wanted the mesh to show through since it has a very pretty pattern.

I will try to make another one later, this time maybe with color.

A Simple Pineapple Top Bag

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Errata: Rnd 13: Sl st in ch-1 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, *ch 3, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk next ch-1 sp, 5 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk next ch-1 sp, shell in next ch-1 sp, rep from * all around ending with 2 dc in first ch-2 sp in rnd 12, ch 1, hdc in top of first dc to join and bring hook to the middle of the sp just made.

(Thanks to Cheri aka CrochetDiva for spotting the error!)


A Simple Pineapple Top Bag

by Fatima Lasay (fats@crochetology.net)

This small bag can be used as a pouch or drawstring bag or as a purse with a folded flap.

Skill Level: Easy
Designer: Fatima Lasay
Website: http://www.crochetology.net/

Finished Measurements:
5 inches wide x 7 inches tall
5 inches wide x 4 inches tall (excluding pineapple flap)

Yarn: Crochet cotton thread, size 8, beige
Hooks: Aluminum crochet hook 5/0 (3mm) or size to obtain gauge
Notions: Synthetic leather thongs or satin lace ribbon, 20 inches long (for tie)
If you wish to use the bag as a purse with a flap top, you will need a button and yarn needle.
Gauge: 23 sts and 12 rows=4” in dc with yarn doubled and crochet hook size 5/0 (3mm)
Terminology: Pattern is written using US crochet terminology (see chart on last page for conversion).
Note: The bag is worked in one piece in the round starting from the base, using two strands of thread held together.

This photo shows where the leather thongs are woven into. Instead of leather you can also use a satin lace ribbon.

Instructions
Stitch guide:

Shell: 2 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in same sp
Picot: ch 3, sl st in same base st/dc
Hdc (half double crochet): Yarn over hook, insert hook in the next stitch to be worked, yarn over hook, pull yarn through stitch, yarn over hook, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook (one half double crochet made).

With two strands of thread held together, ch 27.

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (count as 1 dc), dc in 4th ch from hook, 2 more dc in same ch, then dc in each ch across with 7 dc in last ch to turn to other side of ch; now working on other side of ch, dc in next ch and in each ch across with 3 dc in last ch; sl st in top of first dc to join. (64 dc made)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc and in each dc all around, sl st in top of first dc to join.
Rnd 3-10: As in rnd 2.
Rnd 11: As in rnd 2 but work in back loops only of dc. (Note: Working in blo will make this rnd softer than the ones worked in both loops. The softer round is to make folding the flap of the bag over easier. You can work in both loops of the stitch if you want a stiffer bag).

Crochet symbol chart for Rnds 11-20.


Rnd 12: (Work in both loops here and throughout) Ch 3+1 (count as 1 dc, 1 ch), sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, rep from * all around ending with ch 1, sk 1 dc, sl st in top of first dc to join.
Rnd 13: Sl st in ch-1 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, *ch 3, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk next ch-1 sp, 5 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk next ch-1 sp, shell in next ch-1 sp, rep from * all around ending with 2 dc in first ch-2 sp in rnd 12, ch 1, hdc in top of first dc to join and bring hook to the middle of the sp just made.
Rnd 14: Ch 3, dc in same sp, *ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in same dc, ch 1, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 4 times, dc in same dc, ch 3, shell over shell, rep from * all around ending with 2 dc in first shell in rnd 13, ch 1, hdc in top of first dc to join and bring hook to the middle of the sp just made.
Rnd 15: Ch 3, dc in same sp, *ch 3, [sc in ch-1 sp, ch 3] 6 times, shell over shell, rep from * all around ending with 2 dc in first shell in rnd 14, ch 1, hdc in top of first dc to join and bring hook to the middle of the sp just made.
Rnd 16: Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, *ch 3, now working over ch-3 loops [sc in ch-3 loop, ch 3] 5 times, 6 dc in shell, rep from * ending with 3 dc in first shell of rnd 15, sl st in top of first dc to join.
Rnd 17: Ch 4 (count as 1 dc, 1 ch), dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 3, *now working over ch-3 loops [sc in ch-3 loop, ch 3] 4 times, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 6 times ending last rep with ch 3, rep from * ending with ch 1, sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd 18: Sl st to next ch-1 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, ch 1, 2 dc in next ch-1 sp, *ch 3, now working over ch-3 loops [sc in ch-3 loop, ch 3] 3 times, [2 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 5 times, rep from * ending with ch 1, sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd 19: Ch 3, dc in same dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, *now working over ch-3 loops [sc in ch-3 loop, ch 3] 2 times, [2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1] 5 times ending last rep with ch 3, rep from * ending with ch 1, sl st in top of first dc to join.
Rnd 20: Ch 3, dc in next dc, picot, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in each of next 2 dc, picot, dc in next dc, ch 3, *sc in ch-3 loop, ch 3, [dc in each of next 2 dc, picot, dc in next dc, ch 1] 5 times ending last rep with ch 3, rep from * ending with ch 1, sl st in top of first dc to join. Fasten off.

Block and dry. Then eave leather thongs or ribbon through ch sps in rnd 12.

Optional: You can use the bag as a purse by sewing a button on the inside with the middle ch-1 sp in rnd 12 as the buttonhole (see photo below).

Here, the bag uses a button sewn on the inside at rnd 12 for closure.

The bag used as a hand purse or clutch with the flap folded over. Use stiffer thread material such as hemp for this purpose. You can also use different colors for the top and bottom sections of the bag.

If you like this pattern and make a finished object, please let me know! I would love to see finished work or modifications of the patterns I make. If you’re on Ravelry, you may find me thru http://www.ravelry.com/designers/fatima-lasay. You can also visit my website at http://www.crochetology.net/

Happy Crocheting!
Fatima Lasay

Fatima Lasay is an artist/writer based in the Philippines.
For more patterns and other projects, visit http://www.ravelry.com/designers/fatima-lasay
or visit http://www.crochetology.net/

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Crochet Terminology Conversion Chart



U.S Term U.K./Australia Term
sl st slip stitch sc single crochet
sc single crochet dc double crochet
hdc half double crochet htr half treble crochet
dc double crochet tr treble crochet
tr treble crochet dtr double treble crochet
dtr double treble crochet trip tr / trtr triple treble crochet
trtr triple treble crochet qtr quadruple treble crochet
rev sc reverse single crochet rev dc reverse double crochet
FPdc front post double crochet FPtr front post treble crochet
yo yarn over yoh yarn overyfwd yarn forward

yrn yarn around needle

gauge tension
skip miss

CAL: The Calico Bag (Handle, assembly, finishing)

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I love calico! :)


After making the first draft pattern for The Calico Bag, I am now making another Calico Bag to troubleshoot the pattern. If you’re interested in this as a Crochet-Along (CAL), feel free to join in. And if you like this pattern and make a finished object, please let me know; I would love to see finished work or modifications of the patterns I make. If you’re on Ravelry, you may find me thru this page.

Work on the bag handle started last night and finished today. Below is a photo of the handle in progress.

Calico bag handle in progress.

The handle is worked in the round, and the entire 55 rounds should make a handle approximately 15 1/2 inches long. The color pattern of the handle depends entirely on your creative decisions. You may also refer to the tail of your calico cat for inspiration. :) Remember, stuff the handle with kapok (or other filling material) as you work. One pod of kapok is enough to stuff the handle. Below is a photo.

Preparing kapok for filling.

Crocheting the seams of the bag

For the bottom of the bag, I decided to use sl st as seaming method, and sc for the sides of the bag. Below is a photo of the seaming in sl st, worked on the wrong side of the bag. I used white yarn.

Sl st seaming for the bag's bottom.

For the sides of the bag, I decided that the sc seaming method would be more flexible and thus suitable, in contrast to the sl st seaming which is much tighter so I used for the bottom of the bag. Below is a photo of the seaming in sc, worked on the wrong side of the bag. I used a color that matched one of the two sides of the bag.

Sc seaming for the sides of the bag.

And finally here is the handle and the body of the bag ready for assembly.

The handle and the bag body ready for assembly.

Bag Lining and Snaps
You may also sew a lining for the bag (line the bag before attaching the handles), and use magnetic snaps instead of Velcro strips. Here (photo below), I have sewn a lining for the bag and used magnetic snaps. Thanks to Mimi Alesis for the tips on attaching magnetic snaps.

The Calico Bag can be lined with fabric, and magnetic snaps can be used instead of Velcro strips.

To attach the magnetic snaps, I crocheted two circles the same color as the bag lining and slightly larger than the snaps. Then I attached the snaps to the crocheted circles and sew these to the bag.

Attaching the magnetic snaps.