Crochetology problem: Given basic Sieve Stitch pattern:

Sieve Stitch

And the offset mesh pattern:

Make a multiple of 2 sts.
Rnd 1. (Right side): 1dc into 6th ch from hook, *1ch, skip1 ch, 1 dc into next ch; rep from * ending 1 dc into last ch. Tun.
Rnd 2. 4 ch (counts as 1 dc and 1 ch), skip first 2 sts, 1 dc into next ch sp, *1ch, skip 1 dc, 1 dc into next sp; rep from * to turning ch, 1 dc into next ch. Turn.

Rep rnd 2.

Crochet a sleeveless dress using at least 4 colors.

This crocheted dress was inspired by the sieve stitch.

This Crochetology problem explores the combination of color and texture in very basic crochet stitch variations. The Sieve Stitch pattern serves as the springboard for the development of the design for this dress, in particular, the combination of colors for the front bodice of the dress. I was interested in how patterns of color are made by alternating rows of the Sieve Stitch pattern in different colors.

Other close weave crochet stitches may be used in place of the Sieve Stitch pattern. For example, the floret stitch gives excellent texture and color. More alternative stitches that work well in 2-3 or more colors are: the Parquet Stitch, Wattle Stitch and Grit Stitch.

The Offset Mesh pattern, in the meantime, served to create the drape of the dress. I made some variations of the Offset Mesh pattern by combining with other basic crochet stitch patterns, for example, the block and open filet crochet stitches.

The dress is also in very basic shape, and is crocheted in 4 sections: (1) the front bodice; (2) the back of there bodice; (3) the skirt of the dress (crocheted in the round); and (4) the straps.

These sections are sewn together by hand.

The hem of the dress is a bit of an after-thought. I added the colored hem to lengthen the dress and to match the color from the bodice. Feel free to chooser any wide trimming for the hem. In this case, I used the simple pineapple pattern. I have some notes about the pineapple motif here.

Notes: This dress was made entirely with rayon thread, and perhaps because I often make sc’s and dc’s by inserting the hook in the back loop of the stitch, the dress kept stretching longer and longer each time I used it. Thank goodness it stopped stretching by the fourth time I wore it. So what was originally a mini-dress is now a below-the-knee length dress.

Thank goodness the dress has stopped growing longer!

Because of this stretching, I had to adjust the straps of the dress. The original straps were simple dc’s and I replaced them with the same straps I used for the Dress in Wave Stitch. This time, I made the stitches tighter, inserting the hook in both front and back loops of the stitch.

I am currently working on a new project – what might perhaps be a tunic – based on the floret stitch. This floret stitch-inspired project is worked nearly the same way as this Green Dress in Sieve Stitch. However, for the floret stitch project, I am using cotton thread and have been inserting the hook in both front and back loops of the stitch.

A garden of color and texture.

Crochetology problem:

Using some basic textured stitches:

Ribbed stitch
Make a row of single crochet. Turn. Make another row of single crochet but this time pass the hook through the back part (or back loop) only of the stitches of the preceding row. Use different colors for each row to emphasize the effect of the stitches.

Raised treble
Start with a row of simple treble stitches. The row with the raised treble stitches consists of three simple treble stitches, then one double treble connected with a loop trough the stitch of the previous row. Continue with three simple treble stitches then one double treble, and so on. Use different colors for each row so that the raised treble stitch is more visible.

Shell pattern
The pattern is made up of three rounds of stacked shells that area laced together with chain stitches in the third round of the sequence. Each shell is made by working (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same stitch or space.
Row 1. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next stitch, ch 2, skip next 2 stitches; repeat from * to end. Turn.
Rows 2 and 3. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 space of first shell, *ch 2, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 space of next shell; repeat from * to end. Turn.
Row 4. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 space of first shell, *ch 3, sc in ch-2 space between 2 shells two rounds below, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 space of next shell; repeat from * to end. Turn.
Row 5-7. Repeat Rows 2-4.

Make a wrap-around skirt of at least 4 colors.

This skirt s really very simple. The upper part consisting of single crochet double crochet, ribbed stitch, and raised treble and the lower part a variation of the shell pattern.

I used Monaco rayon threads and mercerized cotton. While I was more concerned with the color, I found it particularly interesting the blending of the two different types of crochet threads.

The rayon thread is much softer and doesn’t stretch, whereas the mercerized cotton thread is stiffer and stretches much better. These are two of the most popular crochet threads in the Philippines – and they are manufactured here as well, although the cotton (according to what I was told) are not grown here but are rather imported from China. What is done here are dyeing and mercerizing (in the case of cotton). For rayon, it seems that the raw materials are also imported.

Rayon is a manufactured regenerated cellulosic fiber. Because it is produced from naturally occurring polymers, it is neither a truly synthetic fiber nor a natural fiber; it is a semi-synthetic fiber. Rayon is known by the names viscose rayon and art silk in the textile industry. It usually has a high lustre quality giving it a bright shine. Rayon contains the chemical elements carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen.

Well, it is quite a pity that most of the goods manufactured here don’t really have the strong (and safe) industrial base here … nevertheless, the production of rayon crochet thread could be discontinued supposedly because there is little market demand, and that production will focus instead on the mercerized cotton thread market. Ironically, in the early to mid-20th century, it was the uptake of manufactured fibers such as rayon that caused the economic crash in cotton-producing countries.

Anyway, I am still thinking about natural fibers in the Philippines and their possibilities for crochet work.

Bamboo, for example, is now becoming fashionable with the resurgence of the “green imperative.” Furthermore, bamboo fiber is softer than cotton and supposedly has anti-bacterial properties. And then there are fibers from pineapple (pinya) and banana (abaca).
Back to rayon, I also suspect that the tedious and environmentally unsafe chemicals needed and resulting from the production of synthetic and semi-synthetic fibers could be reasons not to continue making them. However, the use of natural fiber doesn’t necessarily solve the environmental problems either; more research is needed in improving the process of converting raw materials into usable fibers.

A closer view of the wrap skirt.

Stitches used in making the Multicolor Wrap Skirt:
Note: A very good tutorial on crochet is found at Chapter IX Crochet Work of “The Complete Encyclopedia of Needlework” by Therese de Dillmont.

Ribbed stitch
(Use this stitch for the upper half of the skirt. Alternate with rows of Raised treble stich.)

Make a row of single crochet. Turn. Mae another row of single crochet but this time pass the hook through the back part (or back loop) only of the stitches of the preceding row. Use different colors for each row to emphasize the effect of the stitches.

Raised treble
(Use this stitch for the upper half of the skirt. Alternate with rows of Ribbed stitch.)

Start with a row of simple treble stitches. The row with the raised treble stitches consists of three simple treble stitches, then one double treble connected with a loop trough the stitch of the previous row. Continue with three simple treble stitches then one double treble, and so on. Use different colors for each row so that the raised treble stitch is more visible.

Shell pattern
(Use this stitch for the lower half of the skirt. Alternate with rows of Ribbed stitch.)

The pattern is made up of three rounds of stacked shells that area laced together with chain stitches in the third round of the sequence. Each shell is made by working (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same stitch or space.

Row 1. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next stitch, ch 2, skip next 2 stitches; repeat from * to end. Turn.
Rows 2 and 3. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 space of first shell, *ch 2, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 space of next shell; repeat from * to end. Turn.
Row 4. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 space of first shell, *ch 3, sc in ch-2 space between 2 shells two rounds below, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 space of next shell; repeat from * to end. Turn.
Row 5-7. Repeat Rows 2-4.

The other side of the skirt present a slightly different pattern.

Shell and Bobble Stitch:
(Use this for the hem of the skirt)

CL3 (3-dc cluster): (YO, insert in sp, yo and draw up a lp. yo and through 2 lps on hook) 3 times in same sp, yo and draw through all 4 lps on hook.

Row 1. (WS) Ch 1, 1 sc in each st across. Turn.
Row 2. (RS) Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), skip first sc, 1 dc in next 2 dc, ch 1, *skip 1 sc, 1 dc in next 2 sc, ch 1; rep from *, end skip 1 sc, dc in last sc. Turn.
Row 3. Ch 1, 1 sc in each dc and ch-1 sp across. Turn.
Row 4. Ch 5 (counts as 1 tr and 1 ch), (1 tr, ch 1) twice in first sc, skip 4 sc, 1 sc in next sc, *ch 1, skip 4 sc, (1 tr, ch 1) 5 times in next sc, skip 4 sc, 1 sc in next sc; rep from * to last 5 sc, skip 4 sc, (ch 1, 1 tr) 3 times in last sc. Turn.
Row 5. Ch 1, 1 sc in first tr, *ch 2, skip next ([ch-1 sp, 1 tr] twice and ch-1-sp, [1 dtr, ch 2] 4 times in next sc, skip next ([ch-1-sp, 1 tr) twice and ch-1 sp), 1 sc in next tr; rep from *, end last rep 1 sc in 4th ch of t-ch. Turn.
Row 6. Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, *ch 4, skip next (ch-2 sp and 1 dtr), CL3 in next ch-2 sp, [ch 3, skip 1 dtr, CL3 in next ch-2 sp] twice, ch 4, skip next ch-2 sp, 1 sc in next sc; rep from * to end.

Starburst pattern
(Make 2 rows of the Starburst pattern for the waist. Don’t use rayon thread for this because rayon is too soft)

Row 1. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in next ch and in each ch to end – 15 dc. Turn.
Row 2. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc throughout), skip first dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 5, [skip 2 dc, 1 tr in next dc] 3 times, ch 5, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in last dc, 1 dc in top of t-ch (turning chain). Turn.
Row 3. Ch 3, skip first dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 4, skip 4 ch, 1 sc in next ch, 1 sc in next 3 tr, 1 sc in next ch, ch 4, skip 4 ch, 1 dc in last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 4. Ch 3, skip first dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 5, skip (ch-4 sp, 1 sc), 1 sc in next 3 sc, ch 5, skip (1 sc, ch-4 sp), 1 dc in last dc, 1 dc in top of t-ch. Turn.
Row 5. Ch 3, skip first dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 2, skip ch-5-sp, [1 tr in next sc, ch-2] 3 times, skip ch-5 sp, 1 dc in last dc, 1 dc in top of t-ch. Turn.
Row 6. Ch 3, skip first dc, 1 dc in each st and ch across, end 1 dc in top of t-ch. Turn.
Row 7. Ch 3, skip first dc, 1 dc in each dc across, end 1 dc in top of t-ch. Turn.
Rep rows 2-7.

At the top of this pattern, make a round of single crochet and an extension of chain stitches (on both sides of the skirt) of suitable length to make the ties around the waist. Make the ties thicker with one row of single crochet.

Simple scallop lace pattern
(Use this to create the small scallop edging of the skirt along the sides)

Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st.

Skirt in progress. I started this skirt in Manila in 2008, and conitnued working on it in India and Malaysia in 2008-2009, and finally finished it in Manila in 2009!

Some lessons learned:
Apart from working more boldly with color, working on this skirt presented to me the need to look more closely at the materials (particularly the threads) that I am using. Although I am yet to use (and produce) my own natural fibers, it is clear that the quality of the material is often only “discovered” once it is crocheted or woven into a piece of fabric.

This skirt is also a swatch or sampling of crochet stitches and therefore also the opportunity to “discover” what difference different types of stitches make on different types of threads.

The pineapple lace shawl.

This pineapple lace shawl was made using the pattern below. This particular pattern is a very useful means of learning to make the pineapple motif. I have also used this pattern in the design of two crocheted dresses.

Pattern chart for the pineapple lace shawl.

The finished shawl is not a “pattern-hack” at all, but simply a straight rendition of the given pattern, using 4-ply light yellow rayon thread. The result is a very soft lace fabric.

The manufacturer of the rayon thread I am using, Monaco, says that their brand “raylon” is actually rayon. Earlier, I assumed that “raylon” was actually a rayon blend, that is, a blend of rayon and nylon. Rayon is often blended with synthetic fibers to add strength.

The pineapple lace shawl.

According to the Textiles and Clothing Factsheet at the Ohio State University, “Rayon was the first manufactured fiber. It was developed in France in the 1890s and was originally called “artificial silk.” In 1924, the term rayon was officially adopted by the textile industry. Unlike most man-made fibers, rayon is not synthetic. It is made from wood pulp, a naturally-occurring, cellulose-based raw material. As a result, rayon’s properties are more similar to those of natural cellulosic fibers, such as cotton or linen, than those of thermoplastic, petroleum-based synthetic fibers such as nylon or polyester.”

Rayon is also a very weak fiber. Because of this, rayon garments need considerable care. I also notice a woolly texture on rayon threads when they are wet. It turns out that rayon has low wet strength and is unstable when wet. When hand-washing, the advice is to avoid wringing moisture from rayon fabrics, but rather gently squeeze out moisture and roll in a towel, smooth and shape, then lay flat to dry. Since the shawl is not too heavy when wet, I usually hang it on a plastic (no rust) hanger to dry.

More information about rayon may be found here.